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Thread: Getting ready!

  1. #21
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryL View Post
    ... Both show the capacity with filter change as 1.2 US Quarts. Both also show the Total oil capacity as 1.4 US Quarts which probably reflects the fact we can't get all the original oil out unless we split the engine cases.
    Ridiculous! I just put in 1 quart at every oil change. I've only had to add about a cup a few times between 1,500 mile changes when I ran it really hard on pavement or in 100 degree temps. Usually the level is only a bit below the middle of the sight gauge when I change it.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    So here is a pic of the newer manuel. The capacities listed correlates to what I put into our bikes.

    It shows more oil weights probably because this oil tech didn't exist until recently . 10w-50 covers a broad range. They don't show 0w or 5w yet but that would be for the frozen parts of the world you know crazy winter T dubers like you Admiral, Fred and others. And it recommends Jaso standard.

    IMG_0821.JPG
    Last edited by Tweaker; 05-19-2017 at 02:16 PM.
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    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  3. #23
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    If you remove and clean the OEM filter element, you are losing about 1/4 teaspoon of oil. So the 1.16 US quart figure isn't correct either. 0.16 qt. is 30 teaspoons, SO FOR CRIPES SAKES JUST PUT IN ONE QUART!!!!!
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    Rocky
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  5. #24
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    My bike has it stamped on it as to how much oil to put in.

    1000cc

    So... 33.814 ounces

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  6. #25
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    OK, Let settle this once and for all. Make positively certain your garage floor is dead level. Now make certain your TW is also dead level in your level garage and lift it so it is also dead level front to rear. Now add 1 full US quart, after you replace the drain plug and filter and wring the jug it was in to be sure you got every last drop out. Now with a high intensity light look directly into the sight window and observe the oil level which should be just a tad below the upper line. Crack open a beer and pour yourself a two finger shot of your favorite alcoholic beverage and slam it down. Fill the empty shot glass with some oil and pour it in. Now the oil level in your engine should be absolutely level with the top lines while peering through the sight window with you high intensity light. If not then you screwed something up and if it is above the upper lines then just get a straw and suck a little out.

    There is a better way however. Just go buy 2 quarts of your preferred oil and put one in. Save the second quart for your next oil change or if you happen to notice the level is low between change intervals just try to keep it above the lower lines in the sight window.

    Our TWs are just such simple machines I highly doubt they even give a damn, within reason, what type of oil you feed it or even how much oil is in it as long as there is oil and the freaking oil is clean.

    No offence is directed to the OP of this thread! If this is not the thousandth oil thread we have seen here, all of which have spiraled to the gutter, then it has to be the first oil thread. Just change it with a fresh quart when ever you think it looks dirty. The only real thing to concern yourself with is the bike should really be standing upright and not leaning on the stand when you look into the sight window. I usually just put a small chunk of a 2X4 under the stand so it stands fairly erect just like some other things and I check it. If it looks like my shorts after a hard day of riding then it is time for a change, both the shorts and the oil.

    GaryL
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  7. #26
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckgarrett View Post
    I read in the manual it calls for "JASO MA" spec oil.
    I used this JASO oil in two TW's and in both motorcycles the clutch started slipping.

    Use the kind of oil that has "motorcycle oil" written on the label.

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    Last edited by elime; 05-19-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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  8. #27
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryL View Post
    OK, Let's settle this once and for all. .... GaryL
    Exactly!! Except I would never contaminate a shot glass with oil!
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    Rocky
    2010 TW200
    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  9. #28
    Member chuckgarrett's Avatar
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    Good call elime.


    Hey just so we're clear here. The whole sucking on the straw thing..same rules apply as if your friend gets bit a snake thing?
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  10. #29
    Junior Member Cubby's Avatar
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    You guys are too funny. But really, thanks for all the info.
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  11. #30
    Ken
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    I used Lucas-heavy duty oil stabilizer when my clutches slipped from the wrong oil. That seemed to prevent the slipping. I was using car oil, not recommended by most. I just changed clutches at 42000 miles. I am using motorcycle oil now. I will see if the wear is comparable.

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