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Thread: Trailer Wheel (TW) Mod for the TW200

  1. #21
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Fred's comments are spot-on. I ran the same size Duro as Fred in the stock swingarm shown below for at least 2,000 miles without problems. As you can see, there is some evidence of paint damage on the right side which is where the pinch point occurs with ATV tires in the stock swingarm.

    100_5603.JPG

    The pictures below illustrate the clearance on either side of the stock swingarm. I found it necessary to remove the lower chain guard bracket when I mounted the Duro. Clearance will also depend on your chain and how far rearward it will allow your axle to slide in the frame slots.

    100_3071.JPG

    100_3074.JPG
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  2. #22
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    So Dan, as an Oregonian you must own a chainsaw. Perhaps you could avoid the extended swing arm with a little clever sidewall carving.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member HKLBRY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    So Dan, as an Oregonian you must own a chainsaw. Perhaps you could avoid the extended swing arm with a little clever sidewall carving.
    Well, I have 8 chainsaws in the garage, so that could be done.

    When I was experimenting with my front tire this summer, I actually found the a good sharp carpenters chisel wil go through the tread like butter, so if I need to take a little corner off it won't be a problem. I just am not sure if I want the expense of lengthening the swing arm to do this mod. I have to watch the build budget and spread out these mods over time. So the 12" rim sounds like the route I will go, and may extend the swing arm later if I feel there is a need.

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  5. #24
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I was joking about the chain saw.
    On a serious note I really feel the the 12" trailer wheel conversion will permit choosing a tire that does not come dangerously close to the stock unmodified swing arm.
    For example here are a few 25x8x12 examples from Maxis and a Dirt Devil .41myzCpdnFL._SL500_AA500_.jpg

    dirt_devil3_large.jpg
    The typically installed Duros or Bighorn IIs are a good inch or more taller, with squarish profiles and protruding side lugs. These are the features that bring those ATV tires into close proximity to the right side of the swing arm up where the swing arm gap starts to neck in.
    I showed the Maxis on top to show how rounded a profile is available in a smaller, lighter package. There are lots of options of varying aggressiveness.
    Last edited by Fred; 10-25-2015 at 09:52 PM.
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  6. #25
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Here is the Maxxis Ceros, it comes in both 26x8x12 and 25x8x12. Not as square and blocky as the Duro

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  7. #26
    Senior Member ronnydog's Avatar
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    Bryan is there a aluminum rim option?

    ronnydog

  8. #27
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronnydog View Post
    Bryan is there a aluminum rim option?

    ronnydog
    I don't see any reason why an aluminum rim could not be made to work. My only concern would be since an aluminum rim would be thicker in the mounting area, this would require removing even more material to make the notches that allow the sprocket mounting hub to pass through the center of the rim. There is a limit as to how much material can be removed before compromising the integrity of the rim, but I do not know what that limit is.

    Unfortunately, the sites that I have looked at do not post the weights of their rims, so I do not know what the weight savings with an aluminum rim would be.

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  9. #28
    Senior Member Ricklesss's Avatar
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    GREAT new posting of a great subject. I've been interested in this mod since the first time I ran across it here.
    It just makes so much sense.
    I especially like the idea of reduced swingarm intereference using the 12" wheel, especially for the Oregon mud we have.
    I can imagine there will be a run on used Tdubb wheels on ebay...
    (last one there is a square"!)
    Yup, I'm in...
    RicklesssS in Oregon
    * Hi Huckleberry!

  10. #29
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    Is Mike willing to share the measurements he welded the rim hub and brake hub in this photo? Particularly if I were to use the exact same rim.

    Also, can you share out you cut out the notches in the rim between the hub bolt holes?

    Of course, I ask these questions with the intentions of spending $175 and send it to Mike anyway! Asking just in case.

    Thanks
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  11. #30
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Admiral,

    I will try to get this information for you, but in the interim I will explain how these dimensions can be derived.

    -Brake mounting plate - After the outer spoke ring is removed from this plate, this plate is removed from the hub shaft in order to allow the removal the inner spoke ring. Therefore it is necessary to measure, or mark, the original position of the brake mounting plate so it can be returned to this original position.

    -Rim mounting plate - I provided Mike with a complete TW rear wheel so that he could determine where the centerline of the trailer wheel needed to be with respect to the axle hub. The trailer rim is centered (i.e. no offset) so the surface of new rim mounting plate with the lug bolt threads needs to correspond with where the centerline of the TW rim used to be.

    -There should be some slight allowances made to allow for the final truing of these two plates after welding.

    Let me know if this makes any sense to you.

    Brian
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