Trailer Wheel (TW) Mod for the TW200
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Thread: Trailer Wheel (TW) Mod for the TW200

  1. #1
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Trailer Wheel (TW) Mod for the TW200

    This post details a mod that a couple of forum members have previously completed, most notably Dyno and Little Big Foot. All that I have done is copy selected portions of the approaches that these guys have taken and added a few of my own. I especially want to thank Little Big Foot for providing detailed answers to all of my questions about his build. Here are a couple of links that have details regarding these earlier builds.

    TW200 Mutant Thingy in Michigan

    Little Big Foots Build

    I will try to explain what is involved this mod, and what and how I did mine in order to help anyone else who may be interested in copying what I did. Here is what I started with, a stock rear TW donor wheel. Any year TW wheel will work, they are all the same.

    100_3876.JPG


    Since I didn’t have the required equipment, or the skills, for the machining, fabrication and welding that is required for this mod, I had to find a machinist/fabricator that I could explain this project to and who had the skills to do what I wanted done. I will call the guy that I found Mike (because that is his name ).

    Before disassembling the stock wheel it is necessary to measure and record where the center of the TW rim is with respect to the axle hub. This will allow you to properly locate the trailer wheel with respect to the axle hub. It is also necessary to measure and record the position of the brake mounting flange as this will need to be removed and subsequently replaced. Next you can disassemble the stock rear wheel. I would suggest keeping the spokes and nipples to have on hand for when other forum members need a few replacement spokes. Yamaha only offers these spokes in a complete set and I have given all of mine away already.

    100_3884.JPG


    All that you really need is the rear axle hub assembly.

    100_3885.JPG


    Now for a little bit of terminology to help keep the following explanations straight. Let’s call the leftmost flange on the above picture the sprocket mounting flange, the inner flange will be called the small spoke flange, and the rightmost flange will be called the brake mounting flange with large outer spoke ring.

    The trailer wheel that I selected is a 12 inch x 4 bolt wheel (TW-AW2024040-82171 12x4 White Steel Spoke Trailer Wheel with Pinstripe 4 Lug, 1220 Max Load from Trailer-Wheels.com - $25.69 ($36.53 with tax and shipping).

    100_4840.JPG
    More to come…………….
    Last edited by TW-Brian; 12-29-2015 at 02:09 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Here are the mods that are required to prep the axle hub.

    1) Machine off the large outer spoke ring section of the brake drum mounting plate. This is not a critical operation, you just need to leave enough of the brake mounting plate to secure the brake drum to it. Mine is approximately 4.5” in diameter. The outer spoke ring section that is removed may be discarded.

    2) Machine off the weld holding the brake mounting plate to the hub. Remove only as much material as is needed to remove it. Retain the brake mounting plate as it will need to be re-welded back onto the axle hub in its original position.

    3) Machine off the weld holding the small spoke flange and remove the small spoke flange. Remove only as much material as is needed to remove it. This small spoke flange can be discarded.

    Following are a few pictures that Mike provided showing some of the above steps.

    DSCF3005.JPG

    DSCF3007.JPG

    DSCF3008.JPG

    The next step is to fabricate a new mounting plate that will be welded onto the axle hub and will hold the lug nut studs used to secure the trailer wheel. Mike ordered a round steel plate from McMaster-Carr for this. Mine currently measures approximately 0.47” thick by 5.75” in diameter. This plate needs a center hole cut in it to fit snugly over the axle hub, and four holes for the lug nut studs. Four larger holes were also drilled into this plate in a somewhat feeble attempt to reduce the weight a little bit.

    This new mounting plate needs to be positioned onto the axle hub so that the center of the trailer wheel is exactly centered where the center of the stock rim was located. This mounting plate is then welded onto the axle hub on both sides of the plate and trued up to ensure that the trailer wheel will have no wobble to it.

    The lug bolt studs are then pressed into position. The next step is to weld the brake mounting flange back into its original position and true it up so the that brake drum does not wobble. There is not a lot of room between the new wheel mounting plate/heads of the lug nuts studs and the brake mounting flange, but there is enough space to allow the brake drum mounting nuts to be accessed and secured.

    Here are a couple of different views to show how everything goes together.

    100_5580.JPG

    100_5581.JPG

    More to come……….
    Last edited by TW-Brian; 12-29-2015 at 02:14 PM.
    site:tw200forum.com

  3. #3
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    In order for the trailer wheel to be able to be removed from the axle hub, it must be able to pass over the sprocket mounting flange. Little Big Foot accomplished this by cutting out the original bolt circle from his trailer wheel and fabricating a new mounting bolt circle with a larger center hole and welding it onto his wheel. I wanted to see if this could be avoided by notching the center opening of the trailer wheel just enough to allow the sprocket mounting flange to pass through it. Since the TW only has a whopping 13 horsepower, I did not feel that these notches would significantly compromise the structural integrity of the wheel to the point of posing a safety hazard. The pictures below illustrate what I am describing.

    100_5577.JPG

    100_5583.JPG

    100_5586.JPG

    100_5588.JPG

    100_5590.JPG

    I couldn’t be more pleased with the way this project has turned out so far and the outstanding work that Mike has done. I am sure that there is some measurable wobble/runout on the mounted wheel, but it is certainly not detectable with my unaided eye.

    The next step will be to paint the wheel and axle hub with some rattle can black satin paint and then start shopping for an ATV/UTV tire to mount up.

    In case you are wondering why anyone would bother to do this, here are the benefits that I am hoping to realize with this mod:

    -The ability to safely and easily mount a wide variety of ATV/UTV tires (some even DOT approved) without the danger and drama associated with mounting an ATV tire onto the stock TW rim.

    -To be able to run the selected ATV/UTV tire in a tubeless manner which will allow at least the possibility of plugging a puncture in the field.

    -To have at least some chance of being able to break the bead, do a repair/replacement of the tire and reseat the bead in the field, or be able to have this work done by any place that can remove and replace a car or trailer tire.

    -In case you happen to be in some remote, third world location without access to the very limited selection of tires that will fit the stock TW wheel, you could probably even get by with mounting a standard car or trailer tire until you are able to source and mount a more suitable tire.
    Last edited by TW-Brian; 12-29-2015 at 02:17 PM.
    site:tw200forum.com

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  5. #4
    Senior Member joeband's Avatar
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    great write up brian! your constant search for mods, upgrades, and enhancements never ceases to amaze me... then you post the best write ups with progress, pitfalls and pics!
    thanks!

    now will your new 225 motor help push this mod?
    Gerry, TWilight, TW-Brian and 2 others like this.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Excellant Brian! I'm trading a good quality wheel for Mel's wobbler he rode in Moab just so I can do such a modification. Any chance Mike the machinist would like to do another?
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Gulfrider's Avatar
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    Could you use a aluminum trailer wheel for weight saving, just curious. I would think so? Good job on the fit
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  8. #7
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    I am oh so tempted now!

    I assume the ATV tires mount to the trailer rim without all the modification hassle to the bead of the tire and danger with high psi. to seat the bead?


    Do you have and want to share the measurements or is it too early in the testing process to be sure?
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  9. #8
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    If I recall correctly I read years ago that the 12" rim results more DOT tire options as well as reduced overall weight when run tubeless compared to OEM tire and wheel assembly. Since then the blossoming of the UTV industry might have changed the tire availability options significantly.

    Other builds I have seen had the hybridized hub welded to the trailer rim. TW-BVrian's/Mike's design permits un-bolting of assembly which might help changing a tire with only an automotive tire change station is available w/o smaller spindle needed for motorcycle wheels.

    Anyways I would jump on the opportunity to join in a group deal compared to trying to convince a local machinist to "re-invent the wheel".
    Once again my hat is off to TW-Brian!.
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  11. #10
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Are these too big?images-12.jpeg
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