Key ignition switch to Toggle switch - Anyone do this? - Page 2
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Thread: Key ignition switch to Toggle switch - Anyone do this?

  1. #11
    Senior Member phelonius's Avatar
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    Is the 93 model magneto ignition or battery ignition? Many years ago on my Honda XL350, I was at a bar and broke my key in the ignition switch.
    Since that model was magneto ignition, I just disconnected the multiplug of the ignition and it kick started, I rode home with no lights or horn and used the handlebar
    kill switch to shut it off. Later I simply cut the wires to the ignition at the multiplug and put a toggle that sufficed to turn on the lights and horn.
    Since the ignition was magneto. The ignition key merely grounded the circuit when turned on, the same as if it were a kill switch. I rode it for years on that system using
    the kill switch to turn it off. BTW The toggle only operated the brake light, turn signals and horn. The headlight was on a completely different circuit with its own lighting coil
    and was always on when the engine was running. That circuit had nothing to do with the charging circuit at all. The Electric system had three different coils in the alternator.
    One to run nothing but the headlight, one to keep the battery charged and run the small lights, and one that was the ignition magneto.
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    Phelonius

  2. #12
    Senior Member Skin Walker's Avatar
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    IMG_0155.JPG




    Finally getting around to wiring it up.



    Unfortunately the previous owner jammed that screwdriver in the stock key hole screwing it up.


    I noticed that before this, with the jacked up keyhole being in the ON position although when the bike is off and the start switch was in the OFF position, the battery would always eventually drain out and die.



    I have not hooked this new switch up just yet, but I notice that today before taking the old switch off, (after adding the new starter clutch and putting the starter motor back in) that when I put the wires on the + and - of the battery, the 10Amp fuse instantly pops.


    The odd sized fuses are not easy to find, so I have now added this to accommodate a more commonly found auto fuse.

    IMG_0157.JPG


    I have looked at the wiring diagram that I have and need to make sure everything is/was ( probably isnt ) wired correctly - just need to find out what pops that fuse as soon as I add the battery to it.

    Anyone have any ideas? I have disconnected all lights at this point
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Skin Walker; 04-11-2017 at 03:03 PM.
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    - SW


    2006 TW
    1998 TW
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    1987 B200E
    1979 Honda Z50
    ..and 1 Chihuahua

  3. #13
    Senior Member Skin Walker's Avatar
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    With my volt meter where the fuse is, when i switch it to ON, I am reading 11.84v and it pops the fuse instantly ( when one is in)


    I am looking for broke wires touching metal.. cant seem to find any just yet..
    Ken likes this.
    - SW


    2006 TW
    1998 TW
    1996 TW
    1993 TW
    1985 BW200
    1987 B200E
    1979 Honda Z50
    ..and 1 Chihuahua

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  5. #14
    Senior Member AGman's Avatar
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    Switch.jpg

    Swap the black and red wires. Having a center-off DPDT switch might be an issue.

    You might want to check you haven't pinched a wire when you put the flywheel cover back on, that happens a lot.
    JerseyJeeper, littletommy and Ken like this.
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  6. #15
    Senior Member JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    AGman has made great points. I've been banned from helping wit ign. issues. (Stolen bikes)
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  7. #16
    Junior Member IreCraEra's Avatar
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    Is that a 10 amp fuse? Cause if it is thats your problem. If I remember right the bike uses a 20amp

    edit: whoops I actually went back and read what you wrote :P turns out it is a 10amper... put a 20 in and you should be golden.

    edit #2: just looked in the service manual pre 2001 bikes only need a 15amp, 2001 and newer take 20amp fuses
    Last edited by IreCraEra; 04-11-2017 at 05:58 PM. Reason: spreading misinformation and causiing chaos:P
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  8. #17
    Junior Member IreCraEra's Avatar
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    You should also get rid of that DPDT On-Off-On switch and get a DPDT On-On (sorry I should have specified that before). I did up a little wiring pic to make life easier for ya.

    PS in your picture the wiring is FUBAR'd, you have the Battery 12v going to the CDI and the the power for the lights ect (which isnt receiving any power from the battery) going to ground.

    Hope this helps:
    DTDP.jpg
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  9. #18
    Senior Member Skin Walker's Avatar
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    I gotcha, running to the store for some steaks at the moment.

    To experiment, I had 2 switches put one on red / brown and the other black white/black. Earlier looking at the first diagram, I turned off the lack pair and turned on the red/brown. I was reading that 11.84v - still popped the fuse.

    I disconnected all the wires coming from the engine and starter, checking the voltage at the fuse terminal and was still getting 11.84v, tried it with a fuse with all engine wires disconnected, just the remaining harness wires on and it still popped.

    I will check again on the 10amp fuse to make sure it may be 15...( thought the tube I pulled out earlier was a 10 but that may be right), I have every service manual except for the 1993 which is what I'm working on.

    So for testing purposes to see if I can resolve the fuse issue, I'll get a 15amp however, can I Jerry rig the DPDT to run correctly till I can get the right switch tomorrow? I was trying to make sure the starter motor inrebuilt is working correctly till I ran into this today - I'm in my truck at the moment and will get back to it in about 30-40 mins!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ken likes this.
    - SW


    2006 TW
    1998 TW
    1996 TW
    1993 TW
    1985 BW200
    1987 B200E
    1979 Honda Z50
    ..and 1 Chihuahua

  10. #19
    Senior Member Skin Walker's Avatar
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    Ok I'm back - shoot, I see what you mean about the 2 position switch.. This one is a 3. Darn, I will have to find one tomorrow.


    Cycleopedia says, "If the starter motor does not turn over, first check the condition of the main fuse (15A 1987~2000, 20A 2001 and newer)."


    I did inspect all the wires however and re-wrapped them. No breaks..

    IMG_0158.JPG
    Last edited by Skin Walker; 04-11-2017 at 08:33 PM.
    littletommy likes this.
    - SW


    2006 TW
    1998 TW
    1996 TW
    1993 TW
    1985 BW200
    1987 B200E
    1979 Honda Z50
    ..and 1 Chihuahua

  11. #20
    Junior Member IreCraEra's Avatar
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    The one your using now should definitely be 10amp. Red is 10 and 15 is Blue.

    Your best bet would be to;
    -Wire up the switch you have right now just like that last picture I did up.
    -Then install a 15amp fuse

    If it still blows that fuse then we know that the bike worked fine before you started chopping wires so go back over every wire that you touched and make sure they aren't grounded out, or plugged into the wrong plug ect

    You can still use the switch you have if you want. In the middle position your bike may still run just with out lights....May being the main word there don't quote me on that because I'm not 100% sure if cutting power to the Ignition cut off relay ( the thing that shuts your bike off if the kickstand is left down) will kill the bike.
    So worst case scenario your three switch positions will be On- On without lights- and Off
    Best case will be On-Off-Off

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