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  1. #151
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Thanks Gerry. I still have the dual sprocket in an unopened parts bag uninstallled, it is labeled 12/15.
    I have been content with running the "safe" single sprocket while dealing with other life issues. Should change out as on my last Gizmo outing my initial road gearing left me a little long legged when I took some unplanned technical steep stuff.
    My magic MrGizmo magnetic rear axle snail adjuster had gone missing, undoubtedly stuck to backside of a tool box or under the seat frame of one of my vehicles...so chain adjustments on the trail are not as easy.
    I should replicate Gerry's ingenuity...basically a foot long rod with 2 round "nubs" that protrude radially engaging the corresponding round holes in the swing arm"s snail cams. The magnet of Generation 2 simply keeps the tool engaged with the snails.
    We could maybe get MBW to say that everyone should make their own MrGizmo chain adjusting tool. It really makes axle positioning/ chain length adjustments so very much easier.
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  2. #152
    Senior Member Gerry's Avatar
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    Glad the adjusting tool has worked out so well. Have not had much feedback regarding the valve adjuster. The snail wrench I carry is made from a 3/16" strip about 1/2" wide with a section of vinyl tubing over the handle . The welding was a bit simpler and the tool just a tad lighter. Just bought a new welder and being a retired guy I do have some extra time on my hands should someone want an original mrgizmow snail wrench. Suspect my marking on your parts bag is incorrect. The retention pin position was getting very close to the nesting area of the side plates of the chain I suspect the smaller diameter of a twelve tooth sprocket would conflict with the dimensions I used.
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    Take care my Friend.........

  3. #153
    Junior Member rvflorian's Avatar
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    TW Brian
    i would like to do the same set-up.
    how many link are you running on your 55T/65T set up?
    and how many spacers or washers and where?
    thanks
    Last edited by rvflorian; 12-11-2016 at 12:34 PM.

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  5. #154
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvflorian View Post
    TW Brian
    i would like to do the same set-up.
    how many link are you running on your 55T/65T set up?
    and how many spacers or washers and where?
    thanks
    Hi rvflorian,

    I have done so many different combinations of front/rear sprockets, that I can't keep track of the exact configuration of all of them. I am also running a 2" extended swingarm (thanks again Joemama!), so my length of chain would not apply to a stock swingarm. Sorry.

    Here are my suggestions for your dual rear sprocket setup. Order the sprockets with a center recess cut into them. This will help provide some extra clearance that you will need because there is not a lot of space back there. Regarding the spacers, just buy a bunch of washers and nuts from the hardware store and plan on playing around with different stackups until you find the one that works best at allowing clearance for the chain between the spockets, and between the sprockets/nuts and the swingarm. It's not rocket surgery, just a lot of bolting up and upbolting things.

    Here is a link to the last couple of chains that I have bought for these multiple sprockets combos. It is 132 links and I suggest that you order a couple of extra master links at the same time. Cut the chain to fit your smaller rear sprocket, then figure how long of a piece of chain that you will need to add to fit your larger sprocket.

    I hope this is helpful,

    Brian

    KMC O-Ring Chain 428UO x 132L
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  6. #155
    Senior Member buellzebub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TW-Brian View Post
    ....
    Cut the chain to fit your smaller rear sprocket, then figure how long of a piece of chain that you will need to add to fit your larger sprocket.

    I hope this is helpful,

    Brian

    KMC O-Ring Chain 428UO x 132L
    Forgive me if I'm missing something, but why not cut the chain to fit the larger sprocket first. Then put that length of chain around the smaller sprocket. Cut off the overlap and that is the number of links you'll need to add to fit the large one again 👍
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  7. #156
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buellzebub View Post
    Forgive me if I'm missing something, but why not cut the chain to fit the larger sprocket first. Then put that length of chain around the smaller sprocket. Cut off the overlap and that is the number of links you'll need to add to fit the large one again 
    That way will work too !
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  8. #157
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Or use that big muscle between the ears and figure required chain lengths out in advance.
    Take stock chain length and add 2 links for every inch of extended swing arm length, then add one link for every four additional rear sprocket teeth added beyond stock. The math is easy since our 428 drive chains links ( inner plus outer halves) are 1.0 inches long.
    Last edited by Fred; 12-11-2016 at 04:47 PM.
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  9. #158
    Junior Member gpp919's Avatar
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    Easy Dual Rear Sprocket Setup 45T/50T

    These instructions require no cutting, no grinding, no fabricating, and should take less than ˝ hour. This whole project costs less than $75 and uses all new stuff. Because I had swapped the original 50T rear sprocket for a 42T (and needed to shorten my chain), this post includes directions and materials to start from scratch.

    After looking at this thread for a while I finally decided to give it a go. I took bits and pieces from everyone’s advice and complied what I thought would be the easiest and ideal setup.

    As a few suggested, I went with the recessed JT Sprockets. I believe this is what made everything go so easily. This setup uses the 45T sprocket on the inside and the 50T on the outside. The 45T will be mounted against the wheel hub with the RECESSED SIDE FACING IN (facing the hub and wheel spokes). This will very slightly offset this sprocket from its original alignment and creates a similar slight misalignment for the other sprocket. The outside 50T sprocket will be mounted with the RECESSED SIDE FACING OUT.

    HARDWARE:
    JT Sprockets JTC428HDR122SL 428 HDR 122-Link Heavy Duty Drive Chain ($21.29)
    JT Sprockets JTR1842.45 45T Steel Rear Sprocket ($23.17)
    JT Sprockets JTR1842.50 50T Steel Rear Sprocket ($21.09)
    (6) Bolts (8.8 Grade) M8 x 1.25 x 40mm
    (18) Washers, M8
    (6) Nuts, M8 x 1.25 (regular sized nuts)
    (6) Jam Nuts, M8 x 1.25 (half the thickness of common nuts)
    (6) Lock Nuts/Stop Nuts M8 x 1.25 (blue or white nylon inside)

    NOTE: This is the order things need to go on, from outside to inside:
    Bolt, Washer, 50T Sprocket, Nut, 45T Sprocket, Wheel Hub, Washer, Jam Nut, Locknut

    Remove the chain guard and the sprocket protector thing. Remove the wheel entirely and remove original sprocket. You will not need any of the original bolts or other pieces. Lay the wheel flat with the hub facing up.

    1.) First thread all 6 bolts (with a washer on each) through the 50T sprocket. The bolt head and washers should be sitting inside the recessed part of the sprocket. Remember, this 50T will be the outside sprocket and the RECESSED SIDE will be facing OUT.

    2.) Using the regular size nuts and 6 washers, spin them on to each of the bolts. DO NOT tighten yet. (There needs to be some play to get through the hub.)

    3.) Mount the 45T sprocket on the wheel hub, RECESSED SIDE DOWN, facing the hub. It should be a nice snug fit. Make sure the wholes are lined up.

    4.) Mount the 50T sprocket onto the 45T sprocket (and through the hub). Since the bolts were left loose it should slip right in.

    5.) Add a washer and jam nut (the thinner nuts) to each bolt, and hand-tighten.

    6.) Now you will need to tighten the nuts in between the two sprockets. There should be plenty of room for a wrench because we are using regular sized nuts in between.

    7.) Now you can tighten the Jams Nuts on the inside of the hub (the ones we hand-tightened earlier).

    8.) Finally, add a Lock Nut to each of the bolts and tighten.

    9.) NOTE: The white nylon, sprocket protector thing, can be remounted BUT you will need to add about two or three thin washers on each bolt or these little bolts will interfere with the 50T sprocket. You WILL need to bend the metal mount the sprocket protector thing screws into out of the way a little bit or the bolt heads will rub. The chain guard cannot be remounted unless you do some modifications.

    This specific setup allows for plenty of slack to easily slip the chain from one gear to the other. You’ll notice that at this chain length, the 45T sprocket is pretty much as high of a gear you could put on the inside. The chain is maxed out and the axle is all the way back. However, there seems to be enough slack up front if you wanted to experiment with even lower gearing than the 50T used here.

    I hope this helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gpp919; 05-26-2017 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Adjustments based on suggestions.

  10. #159
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Nice first post - welcome to the board ......
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

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  11. #160
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Nice, clear writeup Gpp, and welcome to the forum!

    Just a headsup. If you change to an O-ring chain, you may need to add another washer between the sprockets for additional clearance for the wider links.
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