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  1. #11
    Junior Member inhousebob's Avatar
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    I love your clear discriptions and photos. Makes it seem possible for a total noob like me. Thanks.

  2. #12
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by inhousebob View Post
    I love your clear discriptions and photos. Makes it seem possible for a total noob like me. Thanks.
    we are all noobs on the great forum of life my friend.
    Persistence is the better part of genius.

  3. #13
    Senior Member FnMag's Avatar
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    Good job and Thanks LittleCow !!

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  5. #14
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    very nice, thanks for showing us how you did it!
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    Senior Member joeband's Avatar
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    do i see bob the builder in your future?
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  7. #16
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    Ok here we go, part two is easy enough, here are a couple of things your going to need if you want to mount your LED's the same way I did. The grommet set being totally essential.



    Now, both of my bikes are already drilled and mounted so I dont really have a bucket that I can use to effectively demonstrate this on, (I could do it on my buddys sportster which is sitting in the garage right now, but im not sure he would appreciate that very much) So just for the purposes of this demo, lets pretend that this stainless steel mixing bowl from my work bench is actually that sweet new seven inch semi-gloss bucket with the chrome retaining ring that you just got in from dime city cycles.

    Persistence is the better part of genius.

  8. #17
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    The first thing you are going to want to do is to take the bucket off of your bike, it is possible to drill your holes with the bucket already mounted, and it is also possible that you will get your alignment close to correct with the bucket mounted, but your holes will not be PRECISE unless you pull the bucket off and measure and drill on your workbench. I say this because you may think right now that it is too much of a pain to remove the bucket. (or whatever component, side plastic for a crankcase temp LED for example). But just realize that while your buddies and people at the dealership may not notice a 1/16 missalignment of your indicators, your subconcious will. And over the course of the next few weeks/months of riding that missalignment will slowly fester and mold in your hindbrain and drive you slowly but surely into a state of total insanity. (speaking from experience).
    Persistence is the better part of genius.

  9. #18
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    Once you have removed and staged your bucket, (or whatever) open up your grommet set and choose a grommet that will fit snugly onto the threaded portion of your LED holder. *Note: Later, when we put this grommet into our drilled out hole, it must tighten up enough to make the Holder have to be screwed into position.



    Persistence is the better part of genius.

  10. #19
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    Next Measure out the spot where you want to mount your LED from a known fixed location. The 550 buckets that I used had mount bolts at the three and nine o'clock positions. This made it very easy for me to center my LED's. Your Project will undoubtedly be very different, so I will not add confusion by posting measurement photos. *Note: I used a Nylon measuring tape that my wife has for her beach body program. It is not a NASA approved calibrated instrument but it did the job of measuring along a curve quite nicely and the results were symetrical (the second time I did it). If you are a stickler for pinpoint precision then you can double check your measurements off the bucket with a dial caliper or a carpenters rule. *Note: A string can be used in place of a measuring tape if nothing else is availiable. Again I dont want to create confusion by posting my measurment numbers so I will not be adding photos for this piece.
    Persistence is the better part of genius.

  11. #20
    Senior Member LittleCowTW's Avatar
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    Once you have accurate measurments, its time to drill. Use a centerpunch to mark the spot where your hole will be, this will keep your starter bit from walking around while you are trying to drill. I use a spring loaded center punch for jobs like this because the impact is always identical and I dont want to damage my sensitive component or walk the punch before the hammer hits. If you dont have anything fancy like that, use a nail. As a side note the spring loaded center punch is handy for things like carb float pins.



    Spring loaded punch is strong enough to mark stainless steel.

    Persistence is the better part of genius.

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