2010 TW can't fired up even battery has 12.8v in it?
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Thread: 2010 TW can't fired up even battery has 12.8v in it?

  1. #1
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    2010 TW can't fired up even battery has 12.8v in it?

    hi guys,

    I got a TW200 2010 (without kick starter) about 4 months ago, use it for commuting between home and office, it was operating beautifully until recently, a couple of problems actually.

    1. It randomly stalls, and I am guessing it's the Neutral switch
    It stalls when I'm on 1st gear, for example when I come to a traffic light, I'll shift into 1st gear, bike still running, but as soon as I let go of the clutch, it stalls, dead, just like that. It just stalls randomly, some days it's all working fine, but some days it'll stalls and it's getting worst as it happens more frequent. And what make it worst is, problem #2, bike won't start even the battery has 12.8v in it.

    I bypassed the clutch switch, I am going to bypass the kickstand switch, and I would really wanna get rid of the goddamn Neutral switch (if it is the culprit), but I couldn't find it. I googled, and I sesarched the forum, I downloaded the service manuals, checked the schematics, but I still don't know where it is. Anybody knows where it is?

    And is the Neutral switch really the problem? Should I look else where?

    2. It won't fire up if battery is below 12.9v, system seems to draw more power than it should
    And so, if the bike stalled at a traffic light, there is no hope for it to start again with the ignition button, because the battery would be too weak to do that. I will then have to look for a freakin slope to push start it, then it'll be good again until it randomly happens again.

    The battery is a motobatt, installed early 2014 (previous owner wrote the date on it), the dimension is smaller than the battery compartment, but i am guessing it should have sufficient power for the system as it was working perfectly the previous 3 months when i first got the bike. I checked the battery with multimeter, it charges at max 14.5v when i rev the bike maybe about 5k RPM, and when idle, it charges at about 13.8~14v, which should means the rectifier is ok and the charging system should be good.

    The battery can hold it's charges overnight or even over a couple of days, but if somehow i fail to start the bike on the first push of the ignition button, then I'll have to look for a freakin' slope again. And if I left the key at ON position, where the headlight and brakelight would be ON, the battery drains super fast, if I let it on for like more than 10 seconds, I'll have to look for a freakin slope again.

    I check the battery with multimeter again, and find out if the battery is lower or at 12.8v, it can not start, which is not right, yeah? It seems like it's drawing more power than it should when the ignition button is pushed, there must be a short somewhere? Is that right?

    I have no add on lights, stocks everything, signals works, brake light works, headlight works, horn works, except the indicator lights are all dead (I assume the bike shop who sold me the bike put in cheap substitutes light bulps ... or it could be another symptom or a faulty electrical system?). What else I can do to find out what is the problem?

    I really need to get this fix, so any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance guys!

    best regards,
    kltrkmpf
    Last edited by kltrkmpf; 12-09-2014 at 03:51 AM.
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  2. #2
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kltrkmpf View Post
    hi guys,

    I got a TW200 2010 (without kick starter) about 4 months ago, use it for commuting between home and office, it was operating beautifully until recently, a couple of problems actually.

    1. It randomly stalls, and I am guessing it's the Neutral switch
    It stalls when I'm on 1st gear, for example when I come to a traffic light, I'll shift into 1st gear, bike still running, but as soon as I let go of the clutch, it stalls, dead, just like that. It just stalls randomly, some days it's all working fine, but some days it'll stalls and it's getting worst as it happens more frequent. And what make it worst is, problem #2, bike won't start even the battery has 12.8v in it.

    I bypassed the clutch switch, I am going to bypass the kickstand switch, and I would really wanna get rid of the goddamn Neutral switch (if it is the culprit), but I couldn't find it. I googled, and I sesarched the forum, I downloaded the service manuals, checked the schematics, but I still don't know where it is. Anybody knows where it is?

    And is the Neutral switch really the problem? Should I look else where?

    2. It won't fire up if battery is below 12.9v, system seems to draw more power than it should
    And so, if the bike stalled at a traffic light, there is no hope for it to start again with the ignition button, because the battery would be too weak to do that. I will then have to look for a freakin slope to push start it, then it'll be good again until it randomly happens again.

    The battery is a motobatt, installed early 2014 (previous owner wrote the date on it), the dimension is smaller than the battery compartment, but i am guessing it should have sufficient power for the system as it was working perfectly the previous 3 months when i first got the bike. I checked the battery with multimeter, it charges at max 14.5v when i rev the bike maybe about 5k RPM, and when idle, it charges at about 13.8~14v, which should means the rectifier is ok and the charging system should be good.

    The battery can hold it's charges overnight or even over a couple of days, but if somehow i fail to start the bike on the first push of the ignition button, then I'll have to look for a freakin' slope again. And if I left the key at ON position, where the headlight and brakelight would be ON, the battery drains super fast, if I let it on for like more than 10 seconds, I'll have to look for a freakin slope again.

    I check the battery with multimeter again, and find out if the battery is lower or at 12.8v, it can not start, which is not right, yeah? It seems like it's drawing more power than it should when the ignition button is pushed, there must be a short somewhere? Is that right?

    I have no add on lights, stocks everything, signals works, brake light works, headlight works, horn works, except the indicator lights are all dead (I assume the bike shop who sold me the bike put in cheap substitutes light bulps ... or it could be another symptom or a faulty electrical system?). What else I can do to find out what is the problem?

    I really need to get this fix, so any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance guys!

    best regards,
    kltrkmpf
    Welcome to the forum. The neutral safety switch is located behind the left case cover, although I don't think that is your problem. I think your battery is going bad. Best thing to do is take it out and take it to a battery shop that can LOAD test it. If it is borderline or bad, replace it. You may need a new flasher unit for the signals to work, but take care of the battery first, then see.
    LittleTommy Hidden Content




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    For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

    For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Indiana's Avatar
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    If you have a volt meter, you can check the battery yourself. This video is of mine when the battery died. The headlamp puts enough load on it to let you know if the battery is bad. Watch the voltage drop when I turn the key on. Also, if the voltage drops below 10 when you hit the starter, you know it's toast.

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  5. #4
    Member mikeleuk's Avatar
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    Check your battery cabels too. Make sure they're tight at both ends and not corroded and that you have a good ground. Is the battery low on water ?
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  6. #5
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Thanks Littletommy for the welcome and the clues! I shall leave the neutral switch alone then. =)

    I just installed a new Yuasa YB7C-A this morning, I have to, because the bike stalled again and this time push start don't work, or maybe the slope at the multi-stories car park is not fast enough to crank it up.

    Lucky for me there are bike shops near by so I push the bike over. Mechanic inspects, he's just checking the rectifier, and he conclude that the MOTOBATT MTX5AL is "too small", and he recommend me to put in a bigger battery. And then he got me a Yuasa YB7C-A which should be the factory default battery. Paid Singapore Dollar $75 for everything, that is about US$60.


    Only thing I'm not sure if it is really an authentic Yuasa, he re-ensured that it is authentic but I suspect its not, as you can see the markings on the battery is very minimal, don't even indicates manufacturing location, and the box that came with it is just a plain white paper box with YUASA logo silkscreened in red on just the front of the box. Don't look convincing to me but they re-ensured it's real ...

    I managed to find a Yuasa YTZ7S at another shop nearby before I go with the suspicious YB7C-A, but the price is SG$120 (US$96), still a compact racing-looking type like the MOTOBATT, but doubting the durability of such new tech battery, as I had seen good reviews about MOTOBATT, yet it still fails within a year, I decided to go with the cheaper option...

    Here's the MOTOBATT MTX5AL, installation date is 18th Jan 2014, that's only about 11month.


    The MOTOBATT can hold charge at 13.08v to 12.89v, and if it drops below 12.80 to like 12.4 ~ 12.6, the charge can 'grow' back to 12.80, and I thought that means the battery is still good because that's what I heard last time when I bought another gel battery for my 1990 DR800. But obviously that's not necessarily true?

    Should I still look for a place to load test the MOTOBATT? Or maybe there is a way to do it on the bike? Will search google and youtube about that ... =)
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  7. #6
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Thank you so much sir! I have to install a new battery this morning because the bike is totally dead, tried to push start it on a slope (short slope though) but it wouldn't fired up so I have to get a new battery. I went for a Yuasa YB7C-A as it is cheaper. But I will sure try to measure the old MOTOBATT using your method tomorrow morning! I really want to find out if it is toast, as it's only 11 month old, and it's a MOTOBATT, I googled about it and only found good reviews ... if it is really toasted, what would be the cause? rect/reg should be in OK condition ... i think ... I hope it's not cause by some sort of bad riding habit ... my 1990 DR800 have battery issues too ... similar, new batt but can't start and it drains super fast, dies in about 2 or 3 push of the ignition button.
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  8. #7
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Yes sir! got it changed!! From a MOTOBATT MTX5AL to a Yuasa YB7C-A of which I'm not even sure if it is authentic, common problem in South East Asia, lots of counterfeits, but i hope it can last ...

  9. #8
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Thank you mikeleuk, will check the cables and the grounds! thanks so much for the clues! But the old MOTOBATT is a gel type battery so definitely not water level though ... anyway had changed to a Yuasa YB7C-A as the batt is officially dead this morning ...
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  10. #9
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    So, cranks right up now and starts? How about the turn signals? Working now?
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    LittleTommy Hidden Content




    --In Memory Of--
    Our Fallen Heroes

    TW2007
    Lizrdbrth
    TWisty
    RonInBoise
    *Reserved*

    Rest In Peace Brothers.

    Hidden Content <<<Click here. Hidden Content


    John 3:16-17

    For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

    For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Indiana's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kltrkmpf View Post
    Should I still look for a place to load test the MOTOBATT? Or maybe there is a way to do it on the bike? Will search google and youtube about that ... =)
    Perhaps there is a clue in the post I made above with the video.

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