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Thread: Engine stalls, terrible noise from the inside

  1. #41
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    I assume Kltrkmpf should wiggle the cam gear up and down, back and forth looking for looseness indicating the above cam bearing issue?

    I forget to ask, or offer, the link to the downloadable PDF file for the TW Service Manual. Can anyone readily post the link for his, and anyone else's benefit?

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  2. #42
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    Good photos. Valve stem, keepers,spring, rocker, cam chain, chain tensioner,cam gear all look good.
    Amount of metal shaving at the oil filter does not look good.
    I believe things will not look pretty when you remove the cylinder head. Post more photos of what you find.
    But all is not lost. Now with tools we can lead through next steps. The videos and the thread r.e. base gasket repair should show the next disassembly steps.
    Thank you so much once again Fred! I'm gonna pull the head after this, I just need to find out how to crank the piston to top center while I don't have a kick starter ...

    And also, sorry for the long silence! I'm thrilled to see so many helps from all you awesome people! But I was busy during the weekday, and finally it is saturdya here in Singapore today, and I got the chance to continue the work.

    Just went to get a spark plug tool, as it is required step as described in BDub's youtube tutorial, and while i'm at it I also went to get the gasket kits, though I'm short of the cylinder bottom 0-ring, they ran out of stock, Fred do you have any recommendation where I can get it from the states or maybe Japan?

    They also have new cylinder going for SG$380, but I didn't buy it yet, am thinking about the possibilities to upgrade to TW225, is it possible on my 2010 engine?

    Start working yesterday evening after work.


    header and carb removed, top screws loosen in criss-cross sequence


    got the spark plug tool and pulled out the spark plug



    the gaskets


    the bill

  3. #43
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyTFS View Post
    With that amount and type of metal in the filter, the most likely culprit is the piston seizing. That part is relatively easy to replace just by pulling the head and cylinder. The problem is that for the length of time it was run after the initial noise, those metal chips are now distributed all through the engine, into all the bushings, bearings, and oil passages. It will need a complete teardown and replacement of all the affected items. What a bummer!
    ARgh!!!! I should have stop immediately!! leasson learnt!! but in a terrible way!!

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  5. #44
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TALONWEST View Post
    This forum amazes me. The TW brotherhood is full of knowledge that that is forged from experience and is passed on to those of us who need it, freely. I have read many post here that have helped me. Mainly on my Cdi issues. I know that when that time comes y'all will share so that I can repair. It is a pleasure to be part of this. Thank you all.
    Totally man! so many tips and advices! Though it's too late to learn, but I be sure I knew better next time, and I'm overwhelmed!! Thank you all!!

  6. #45
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    Has the engine got any compression? I would turn the engine over to top dead center to take any pressure off the cam chain, back out the cam chain tensioner and check the cam bearing for wear. You might have got real lucky and just got a collapsed cam bearing. They make horrible noises when they get excessive play and scream and whistle when they start tearing up.
    Thanks so much AGman, I only have a electric starter, I'm not sure how to turn the engine over to top center but I'll try to look for it on youtube first, but if you happend to read this please teach me how to do it just in case I couldn't find it on youtube. Also, may I know where is the cam bearing and how do I get to it? finger crossed!

    Thanks again AGman!

  7. #46
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plumbstraight View Post
    I am curious as I haven't noticed anything about the bleed bolt in the head. When you changed oil, did you unscrew that small bolt in the head after starting to see if you were getting oil to the head? 400k might be doable with the residual oil in the cam before it started to squeal. Just an observation.
    hi plumgstraight,

    no ... unfortunately I didn't check the bleed bolt, though i did 1250km instead of 400km after changing the oil filter. Then after about 1200km after the oil filter change, the oil level was really low, so I top it up with 20--40 Yamalube, and then it happend the next day.

  8. #47
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple View Post
    thanks so much purple! really appreciate it!

  9. #48
    Senior Member AGman's Avatar
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    You can take the two inspection caps off the flywheel cover. In the larger one you can stick a socket in there (remove the spark plug) and rotate the engine. Remove the top timing gear cover and you will see a mark on the timing gear and one in the top of casting of the head near the cam gear. TDC is achieved when you line up this mark on the cam gear/head, to the "T" on the flywheel which you should be able to see through the smaller inspection port on the flywheel cover. If this all sounds a bit vague, check out the description in the manual.

    There may be a few pics on my timing chain replacement blog on my site that might help.
    Last edited by AGman; 01-29-2016 at 11:43 PM.
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  10. #49
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Now that the spark plug is out is should be easy to get to top dead center by turning a socket or wrench on either the bolt holding cam gear, or better yet the similar bolt on end of crank which is accessible under ~6cm plastic plug on lower left side engine cover ( where chain dissapers in engine) I unscrew the plug counterclockwise using a big flat washer, plug is plastic and a little fragile.
    The big o-ring at cylinder base might be ordered through Boats.net or Stadium Yamaha .com at good prices, do not know r.e. international shipping though.
    There are threads here on forum detailing 225 cylinder and piston installation that could explain much better than I, but I think it basically requires enlarging up the opening on engine cases where cylinder base fits. Might be a good challenge on your first engine re-build, read the threads and decide for yourself once you see how much damage there is to piston and cylinder. Time to pull the cylinder head and hopefully see what is wrong. Leave engine in frame for now.
    This all goes a little easier if you can support bike vertically on a crate or other bike stand rather than leaning on side stand. Not mandatory, just easier when it comes time to put it all together.

    Time for others with more experience to add to my meager knowledge before I give bad advice.

    EDIT: Thanks AGman, you beat me to giving better description of getting to Top Dead Center.
    Last edited by Fred; 01-29-2016 at 11:58 PM.
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  11. #50
    Member kltrkmpf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    You can take the two inspection caps off the flywheel cover. In the larger one you can stick a socket in there (remove the spark plug) and rotate the engine. Remove the top timing gear cover and you will see a mark on the timing gear and one in the top of casting of the head near the cam gear. TDC is achieved when you line up this mark on the cam gear/head, to the "T" on the flywheel which you should be able to see through the smaller inspection port on the flywheel cover. If this all sounds a bit vague, check out the description in the manual.

    There may be a few pics on my timing chain replacement blog on my site that might help.
    Thanks again AGman!

    Here's what I saw, when I see this mark in the inspection window, the top timing gear is so. (chain tensioner removed though)


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