My TW won't start without choke on and sputters at idle without choke on..coldblooded
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Thread: My TW won't start without choke on and sputters at idle without choke on..coldblooded

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    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    My TW won't start without choke on and sputters at idle without choke on..coldblooded

    So I'm having trouble with my 97 TW running correctly at idle. I have only had it since last fall and had to rebuild the top end due to the wrong oil filter already the spring! So now that the top end is fixed I want to make it run right. Before I bought it; the carb was gone thru by a Yamaha shop; and it looks clean inside and out. But it won't run good at idle without the choke on, until it's been rode like 5 miles...seems like it should warn up sooner than that. Some might say it's coldblooded....but it's unacceptable to me. It spits and supttere in first and second gear while trying to build speed. I took the carb off to check things, it looked clean. So I checked the turns out on the pilot screw on the front side of the carb; it was backed out 5 turns ! So I have tried it at various places between 1.5-2.5 turns out as my manual suggests. The main jet was a 114 which is also correct according to my manual. What do I do next?

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    Senior Member pred's Avatar
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    Possible inlet leak?
    These seem popular
    Carburetor Adapter for Yamaha TW200 2JX TW 1987 2000 Joint Carburetor New | eBay
    You heated up the head pretty good when the oil flow was an issue,
    You could have easily damaged the intake rubber,
    Check for leaks or any cracking,

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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Replace or clean your pilot jet and readjust the mixture screw to 2 and 1/2 turns out and we will go from there...
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    Mel
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    Senior Member Mel's Avatar
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    Two of my TW's are as cold blooded as my ex-wife. If they warn up enough in 5 miles, feel fortunate, and ride them like you stole them. On serious note, these are not precision machines, and the slow warm up is not a problem.
    Mel

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    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    Well I hate to warm something up for as long as it takes to ride home from work!! About 5 miles. I'll take it apart again tonight and look at things
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    Senior Member JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rokon84 View Post
    So I'm having trouble with my 97 TW running correctly at idle. I have only had it since last fall and had to rebuild the top end due to the wrong oil filter already the spring! So now that the top end is fixed I want to make it run right. Before I bought it; the carb was gone thru by a Yamaha shop; and it looks clean inside and out. But it won't run good at idle without the choke on, until it's been rode like 5 miles...seems like it should warn up sooner than that. Some might say it's coldblooded....but it's unacceptable to me. It spits and supttere in first and second gear while trying to build speed. I took the carb off to check things, it looked clean. So I checked the turns out on the pilot screw on the front side of the carb; it was backed out 5 turns ! So I have tried it at various places between 1.5-2.5 turns out as my manual suggests. The main jet was a 114 which is also correct according to my manual. What do I do next?
    Next.. stop riding it until you confirm you don't have an intake vacuum leak and if so until it's fixed ( you had it apart so it's possible you cracked the rubber). That's too cold blooded, 5 miles..? It's not February. You could burn the new top end up if it's running too lean.

    replace the rubber manifold, there are two types, get the correct one and the o ring.
    replace the idle air jet, don't s waste time on it.
    put at least a 126 main jet in, even a 128 (new style tk carb) depending on your altitude and temps.
    clean it real good too.
    Its probably a small vacuum leak and a dirty carb. Do both, you'll have it apart anyway.
    Last edited by JerseyJeeper; 06-01-2016 at 08:17 PM.
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    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    Well I can tell the suggestion on main jets will open a can of worms; I have read several on here that say to stay with the stock 114. I think it runs too lean as well; I just replaced the spark plug and it was dry and crispy white; that's the reason I changed it, to see how a new one would age. I've prly only put on 15 miles since top end rebuild. I live at 1300' elevation, but i may take it to 8-9000' elevation in Colorado too; what jets are suggested? The rubber manifold on the front side of the carb is really hard; I couldn't pry it off the carb with my bare hands so I just left it on when I removed the carb for inspection last time; is that normal; does the rear manifold leak as often beings that it's not subject to all the heat as the front one?
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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rokon84 View Post
    Well I can tell the suggestion on main jets will open a can of worms; I have read several on here that say to stay with the stock 114. I think it runs too lean as well; I just replaced the spark plug and it was dry and crispy white; that's the reason I changed it, to see how a new one would age. I've prly only put on 15 miles since top end rebuild. I live at 1300' elevation, but i may take it to 8-9000' elevation in Colorado too; what jets are suggested? The rubber manifold on the front side of the carb is really hard; I couldn't pry it off the carb with my bare hands so I just left it on when I removed the carb for inspection last time; is that normal; does the rear manifold leak as often beings that it's not subject to all the heat as the front one?

    If one is hardened, the other probably is too. I would replace both.
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    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    Holy crap that front one is $62! I can see dumping $100 into this carb real quick
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    Senior Member PlacerLode's Avatar
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    most critical for starting issues is the pilot jet I always start there

    It's such a fine orifice even on it cleanest day there is no room for error

    it can affect all sorts of starting scenarios ie starts only w/o choke, runs only with choke etc

    easy to check for manifold leak (this is rare IMO) but spray a light mist of ether just a little puff at a time on each side of the intake area NOT in the air intake!. If there is a leak the rpm's will jump up a tad if not there is no leak
    Last edited by PlacerLode; 06-01-2016 at 07:55 PM.
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