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Thread: Fuel pouring out of airbox + running lean

  1. #21
    Junior Member travelrider73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerseyJeeper View Post
    You should be able to buy a big thick o-ring and cut a piece to stick in their. Get a Viton o-ring they are gas resistant/proof. They make them real thick. A diesal shop or hose shop should have one. Heavy equipment uses thick o-rings.
    Thanks for all your help. It looks like I may be back in business except for that plug falling out. I just know it's going to end up in the bottom of the bowl if I use it as is.
    Family Toys...
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  2. #22
    Senior Member JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Your very welcome, best of luck.

    You could also cut a new one out of a piece of fuel hose.
    XT225 - 1999 Serow... (Now in the Coral!) Yay
    TW200Z - 2010
    BW200 - 1986
    TTR225R - 2003
    Husqvarna 701 - 2017

  3. #23
    Junior Member travelrider73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerseyJeeper View Post
    Your very welcome, best of luck.

    You could also cut a new one out of a piece of fuel hose.
    That might work... If I had a punch the right size maybe. Doubt I can be that accurate without one.
    The darned thing is $5 too. Not going to break my bank, but that seems ridiculous.
    I wonder why Yamaha plugged that port.
    Family Toys...
    -2007 Yamaha TW200
    -2007 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2005 Honda Goldwing GL1800
    -2004 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2004 Suzuki SV650
    -1982 Honda CBX
    -and a couple of ATVs

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  5. #24
    Junior Member travelrider73's Avatar
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    So, one more question. My motorcycle was behaving as if it was running very lean. This problem we discussed was, in a way, too much fuel, which would make me think RICH, not LEAN. Unless the fact that the fuel was all pouring into the air box was starving the engine of fuel...

    Since I've been messing with the carb, I wonder if I should reset the jets to "factory spec" and go from there. The problem is, the supplementary service manual doesn't tell me what that spec is. It actually says Before disassembling the carburetor, make
    sure to note the number of times the pilot screw is turned out from the seated position to its set position.
    . That's not very helpful if you're trying to figure out the right starting point not knowing anything. Can anyone tell me what that factory spec is on a 2007 TW200?

    Thanks!
    Family Toys...
    -2007 Yamaha TW200
    -2007 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2005 Honda Goldwing GL1800
    -2004 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2004 Suzuki SV650
    -1982 Honda CBX
    -and a couple of ATVs

  6. #25
    Senior Member JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    A good staring point in my opinion is a 128 main jet and 2.25 turns out on idle air jet. Unless your at sea level then go 130. If your up high 126. Your mileage will vary Literally...! Lol.
    jj
    XT225 - 1999 Serow... (Now in the Coral!) Yay
    TW200Z - 2010
    BW200 - 1986
    TTR225R - 2003
    Husqvarna 701 - 2017

  7. #26
    Junior Member travelrider73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerseyJeeper View Post
    A good staring point in my opinion is a 128 main jet and 2.25 turns out on idle air jet. Unless your at sea level then go 130. If your up high 126. Your mileage will vary Literally...! Lol.
    jj
    Thanks! I am at sea level! (Florida). Is it worth the wait for the 130 to put the carb back together? I'd really like to put this back together and see if my problem is fixed!
    Family Toys...
    -2007 Yamaha TW200
    -2007 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2005 Honda Goldwing GL1800
    -2004 Yamaha FJR1300
    -2004 Suzuki SV650
    -1982 Honda CBX
    -and a couple of ATVs

  8. #27
    Senior Member pred's Avatar
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    Quick check is to always put fuel inlet to mouth and blow into it,
    Make sure carb is upright.
    Slowly lift floats to ensure that they stop air movement,
    There should be no resistance in lifting the floats and then put the bowl on and slowly blow again and little carb till floats move,
    Seems like floats are sticking of the TINY tab which moves the valve is bent,
    Fred and travelrider73 like this.

  9. #28
    Senior Member JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by travelrider73 View Post
    Thanks! I am at sea level! (Florida). Is it worth the wait for the 130 to put the carb back together? I'd really like to put this back together and see if my problem is fixed!
    Proper carb tuning takes time. You'll need to shim the needle too etc. put it together and ride it now while you research the threads on this. I have a thread called the perfect jet for me at sea level floating around. Others have good ones too.
    XT225 - 1999 Serow... (Now in the Coral!) Yay
    TW200Z - 2010
    BW200 - 1986
    TTR225R - 2003
    Husqvarna 701 - 2017

  10. #29
    Senior Member fishguy's Avatar
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    Personally, before replacing jets, etc., I would run this carb for a 100 miles, or so, with lots of SeaFoam or Lucas Fuel System Cleaner in the gas. I do not think you have all the passages clean.

    I always soak carbs in carb cleaner when rebuilding. It is nasty stuff but it works GOOD. Remember to remove ALL plastic and rubber parts before soaking.
    littletommy and travelrider73 like this.

  11. #30
    Senior Member supachip1's Avatar
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    all the jap imports here come with 132 main jets, even the 225cc have that same size, whats the stock/factory setting for US?

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