This may be an elementary question, but here goes: I am thinking of installing 2" risers on my 2011 TW in order to get maybe a more comfortable position. I haven't ordered any yet, but upon looking at the cable slack and routings, I'm wondering if will work without major cable work.
Some here have mentioned re-routing the cables. Do you have to disconnect them to do that? And where. Do you re-route them? There doesn't seem to be all that much room.
2" risers are a common no-hassle popular modification. I would recommend 2" risers for greater comfort and control both seated and when standing on the pegs.
These are the best risers in the world. Made in USA. I chose to reroute my cables to the outside of the handlebars, but it probably is not necessary. Nobody should buy any other risers than these.
2 inch pivot risers for 7/8 bars. Order them today so you can get them on your bike and ride before it snows. You can do wheelies easier with risers. Real benefit- When you upgrade the appearance and function of your bike with a Clarke tank (which everyone should do), your bars will clear the tank. This is big. I had to replace my risers (1.25 inch up and 1.25 inch back). This is the right p/n also.
+1 ! I've had mine since 2010. For me, being able to move the bars 1 inch forward as well as nearly 2 inches up was the clincher. I never touched the cables, no problem there at all.
any idea if these PowerMadd 45430 PowerRiser 475 - 2" Tall X 4.75" Wide, 7/8" bars to 7/8" bars will fit the TH200 handlebar clamps spacing? Think I'd feel better with a one-piece design. They are $ 55.51 at Amazon. Thanks for comments
Yam200 - I have that same riser, PowerMadd 475. I bought it from amazon too and have been riding with it nearly a year. It fits just fine and no issues with needing to change cable length or routing. Really helped my hand position (I'm 6'3"). Easy install and no problems since. Enjoy if that's the way you go.
mounted the 475 without problems and cables were long enough. Trying to fond the best position: moving the handle bars towards the front or back. Guess is a matter of comfort and control for each individual. Have them straight for now.
I have 2" Rox anti-vibration risers on my 2013. They pivot which allows the rider to find a comfortable handlebar position. The 2" rise was the absolute maximum the cables would allow. My hand guard mounts restricted any extra free space for the cables when the bars were raised but no re-routing was required.
I like the anti-vibration feature. They're expensive but reduce handlebar buzz nicely.
I am embarrassed to say that I paid for the billet cap, but I like the plastic cap and tube set up so much I left it in the box. Why add a gas cap when you can add a cap and a tube? That is 2 things as opposed to 1.
The reason I got the billet cap - I filled the tank with fuel took a ride and parked the bike in the sun. I went to take the cap off and the rubber part of the Clarke cap had swelled in the heat and separated from the cap! This was in 70 degree weather (in the sun). I can only imagine what would happen in the summer....I also have read of other folks have the Clarke cap break at elevation and from dropping. The Tusk cap does not have the rubber part that goes down into the tank it just has a good quality gasket along the top of the cap - simple/better design in my opinion -- and it looks way cooler, it better for $32 (including shipping) it had better look and function well! Loving this little machine. My Victory Cross Country is seeing less use :^)
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