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Thread: 2005 TW200 wont kick over, need advice

  1. #11
    Junior Member goboing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    If they are tight, you will lose compression. It may push start if you can get the revs up a bit higher if the valves are slightly open. I wouldn't of thought this is the issue with the Km's showing on your odometer but you have checked all the other stuff...
    It's getting good compression from what I can tell without a compression tester, when I messed with the Fuel/air mixture valve to flood the cylinder it shot out the fuel. Even before messing with the fuel/air valve it blew a lot of air out of the cylinder, ill still check them though. push starting also helped a little more. Got it started for maybe 2-4 seconds before dying out but its a little harder to do since the clutch is sticking and wont release since its been sitting a while.

  2. #12
    Senior Member AGman's Avatar
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    Yep, its weird. All seems good but it wont run via electric or kick if it has it fitted.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Ski Pro 3's Avatar
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    Wow!
    Carb works on another bike. That's big deal. Eliminates a lot right off the bat.

    Valve clearances has been mentioned already, but valve timing might be at issue. Maybe your valve chain jumped a tooth. It's fairly easy to check. I'll leave it up to you to research how rather than step through the process.

    Bad fuel? If you haven't tried fresh gas, you can drain, flush and fill with fresh fuel.

    BTW, as long as the bike is in neutral, the kickstand switch shouldn't matter.

    Kill switch on the bars may be an issue, but since you have spark, I wouldn't think so. But still, I'd check it out or bypass it by unplugging from the harness.

    Did you verify fuel fills the bowl on the carb by turning the drain screw and verifying fuel flows out the bowl? I ask this because I accidentally put the fuel line on the wrong nipple on the carb. Try putting a hose on the fuel nipple and blowing on it to verify fuel is able to get past the float valve assembly. If air can get by, fuel should too.

    Is the plug ever wet with fuel when you pull it after trying to start the bike?

    You know, of course, if any of us was to come over and try, it would fire straight up, right?
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  5. #14
    Junior Member goboing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    Yep, its weird. All seems good but it wont run via electric or kick if it has it fitted.
    No kickstart

  6. #15
    Junior Member goboing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ski Pro 3 View Post
    Wow!
    Carb works on another bike. That's big deal. Eliminates a lot right off the bat.

    Valve clearances has been mentioned already, but valve timing might be at issue. Maybe your valve chain jumped a tooth. It's fairly easy to check. I'll leave it up to you to research how rather than step through the process.

    Bad fuel? If you haven't tried fresh gas, you can drain, flush and fill with fresh fuel.

    BTW, as long as the bike is in neutral, the kickstand switch shouldn't matter.

    Kill switch on the bars may be an issue, but since you have spark, I wouldn't think so. But still, I'd check it out or bypass it by unplugging from the harness.

    Did you verify fuel fills the bowl on the carb by turning the drain screw and verifying fuel flows out the bowl? I ask this because I accidentally put the fuel line on the wrong nipple on the carb. Try putting a hose on the fuel nipple and blowing on it to verify fuel is able to get past the float valve assembly. If air can get by, fuel should too.

    Is the plug ever wet with fuel when you pull it after trying to start the bike?

    You know, of course, if any of us was to come over and try, it would fire straight up, right?
    Yep the fact the carb works on a totally different bike is amazing. I was relieved that my effort paid off.

    I'll check out the timing, maybe that's the whole trouble of not firing at the right moment. I'll check out other threads on the process but thanks.

    New Fuel and opened the drain valve on the carb to allow fuel into it multiple times to be sure the bowl has fuel, it also doesn't pour out so i know the float is working also when i had the carb apart i threw it in a pool of water to be sure it floats. float and spicket does their job.

    Spark plug does get a coating of gas, even floods when i mess with the fuel/air mixture valve so gas does get delivered to the cylinder.

    ah alright, was wondering about the kickstand sensor. thanks


    i opened it up to see if i had any issues with the kill switch but nothing came of it. no issues there.

    If it started if someone came here I'd be the happiest guy there, it would probably do the same thing if i took it to a motorcycle shop

  7. #16
    rbm
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    When is the last time it ran? What, if anything, have yo done to the bike since it last ran?
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  8. #17
    Junior Member goboing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbm View Post
    When is the last time it ran? What, if anything, have yo done to the bike since it last ran?
    That I do not know, I bought the bike in this current condition.

  9. #18
    Senior Member Mattwings's Avatar
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    Have you tried another plug? I have had a plug that looked good, sparked when I looked at it (ground to the motor) but the insulator had a small crack that would not let it fire correctly. Took me forever to figure out the issue. I think you have, just trying to think of something from your exhaustive list that you might not have tried?
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  10. #19
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    The advice given thus far seems to cover most possibilities. So, I will as my 2 cents only as a summary:

    When a bike won’t start and yet the motor will turn over (starter will crank), my typical approach is —

    1. Does it kick over “normal”? The first 10 of my 13 bikes had kick starts and it was easy to feel the compression. Without that feature, pull the plugs and put a finger over the plug hole while cranking. If you’ve had the bike a while, the amount of pressure should feel normal. If you have a compression tester, all the better. If rings are not excessively worn, no hole burned in piston and valves operated normal, then move on to the next step.

    2. Were plugs wet, when pulled, after trying to start? If not, check for fuel flow...if, then check if -
    a. petcock screen not clogged?
    b. fuel tank cap venting?
    c. petcock flowing?
    d. fuel in bowl? (open drain screw is quick way to check)
    e. if a-d are OK, then remove carb bowl and check float valve not restricted with debris
    f. float level correct?
    g. If unsure, does starter fluid get it going? If so, then it is a fuel/fuel mixture issue. Otherwise, then move on to the next step.

    3. With plugs out, plugs in high voltage boots, plug prongs grounded (typically to cylinder/head cooling fins), kick the motor or operate the starter. Check for strong bright blue spark. If none, or weak, then check -
    a. voltage to coil primary (should be same as battery voltage)
    b. measure coil resistance
    c. check high voltage plug wires (both ends)
    d. check spark plug condition
    e. check coil primary connection to CDI (orange wire)
    f. If EVERYTHING checks good, but still no spark, then it may be the CDI or CDI magneto

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    Last edited by SportsterDoc; 01-26-2017 at 09:00 AM.
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  11. #20
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    After re-reading this thread a couple times, suggest that you focus on valves not fully closing (AGman), intake seal leaking (pred) and fresh gas (Ski Pro 3) suggestions.
    It could also be flooded.
    In 2003, I dropped my XLH883 Sportster on a fire road in SoCal.
    By the time I got it up, it seriously flooded and did not respond to the starter cranking it.
    I had come up a long steep grade, so I coasted until it picked up speed, let out the clutch in second as I bounced on the seat (for traction).
    It turned over for several seconds before it fired.
    Last edited by SportsterDoc; 01-26-2017 at 09:12 AM.

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