What can I do to make my tdub start and idle better?
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Thread: What can I do to make my tdub start and idle better?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    What can I do to make my tdub start and idle better?

    Thanks to this forum I rebuilt the top end of my first tdub last spring. Because I had to...after only a few miles of riding it for the first time the motor locked up because the last person to change the oil didn't use the correct filter. So I say thanks. And hope now you can help me get it idling a bit better.
    I just ordered a new battery and it has me thinking I want this thing to run better than it did last year. I cleaned the carb and messed with the adjustment screws to no end. Still doesn't idle to my likings and takes forever to warm up enough to take the choke off. So I'm wondering what my options are. I can dismantle the carb and soak it. What about shimming the needle? I've read some stuff on that, is it good idea ? I don't want to modify this thing to the extent that it needs new exhaust and intake blah blah blah. But I would like a good idle and as much power as I can reasonably get fairly cheaply/easily. From some stuff I've read would it also be a good idea to move up a size on the idle jet? I'm not sure what it has now. It is a 1997.
    I think I also have clutch issues, it doesn't engage till the lever is almost all the way out. I think I have done all the adjusting i can do without tearing into the clutch, which I've never done. Is it likely I need new clutch discs or is there some kind of internal adjustment as well? Are clutches hard to work on? I have a parts motor with a brand new clutch in it I can practice on or maybe swap parts out of?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    I don't have your year carb but if you are adjusting the pilot mixture screw and it isnt doing much. I would check to see that all the parts are there for pilot needle screw, spring and o ring. A bad oring on the screw can cause problems. You might replace the pilot screw assembly. I would replace the pilot jet with a new one in the stock size, maybe buy a larger one for later to try. I would also try and clean the pilot jet area again. Remove the pilot screw and also the pilot jet to do this. Your carb and all the parts have to be good, also clean before trying to tune the carb. May sure you don't have carb boot air leaks. This can cause a lot of idling problems.Spray WD-40 by the boots when the bike is running if it speeds up you have boot air leaks. Under the tech stickies Lizrdbrth has the procedure for adjusting and tuning a carb. Carefully read that. After you get it idling right then you can try shims on the needle to improve acceration. My bike had a hesitation the shims fixed caused by a pipe.

    I haven't messed with my clutch except to remove it to install a kick starter. It's not hard but you need to learn what to do. Plus there is a cover gasket that is a pain to R and R. That being said our clutches seem to let out near the top. Check your spring where the lever comes out of the motor on the left side to see if it is on where it should be.

    Have fun learning this stuff it is rewarding.
    Last edited by Tweaker; 01-27-2017 at 10:27 PM.
    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  3. #3
    Senior Member methamphetasaur's Avatar
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    Honestly, before you do something crazy- make sure it isn't the cold that's making it start shitty. The TW is known for not wanting to start as soon as it starts to get even slightly coldish.
    mudbug and admiral like this.

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    Senior Member Jut8's Avatar
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    This probably won't fix everything for you, but I know a few others (myself included) have put an ngk iridium plug on theirs and have had good results, it's a cheap $8 at any auto parts store, it seemed to help my 08 and 13 a touch...enough to the point that I never have touched the carbs on either. Might be worth a shot
    -13 TW200
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    -Missing my DR650 a little bit

  6. #5
    Senior Member ToolmanJohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rokon84 View Post
    I think I also have clutch issues, it doesn't engage till the lever is almost all the way out. I think I have done all the adjusting i can do without tearing into the clutch, which I've never done. Is it likely I need new clutch discs or is there some kind of internal adjustment as well? Are clutches hard to work on? I have a parts motor with a brand new clutch in it I can practice on or maybe swap parts out of?
    The short range of clutch engagement is normal for TW 's . It seems like the last 1/2 inch of letting the clutch lever out is where it starts engaging. My 2013 is the same and it had only 881 miles when I bought it. I did an oil change and it still acts the same. Clutch feels the same as well, no big difference that I could tell. I didn't like how far away the stock levers were from the grips, so I bought some adjustable reach levers and that has improved how things feel tremendously. I recommend adjustable levers for everyone. The hand controls are where a lot of safety and control is.
    2013 Yamaha TW200 (Current) - Shinko SR41, Enduro Mirrors, Seat Concepts Foam and Cover, Generic Handguards (GOOFIT) requiring 5+ hours of diddling to install......You've been warned.
    2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R (sold) Fun for a year, then mega garage DUST collector
    1985 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk (sold) FUN - but became a dust collector
    1984 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk (sold) Primary transportation for almost 5 years
    Various other 2 wheel rolling junk not worthy of mention....

  7. #6
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    +1 to Tweaker's comments.
    When a mixture screw does not respond, either the pilot is too lean or there are vacuum leaks, if the carb is intact.
    Smitty Blackstone and Ken like this.

  8. #7
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToolmanJohn View Post
    The short range of clutch engagement is normal for TW 's.
    +1
    True for my 2017 with only 400 miles on the clock in the past month.
    Ken likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Rokon84's Avatar
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    I have never heard of an adjustable lever like you speak of...if it's different than a stock lever. I'll have to check into that. With my small hnds I feel like a shorter stroke lever would make me feel more in control esp with my 4 or 5 yr old on back. And the starting issue and idling issue has nothing to do with air temp in my case I don't think... it starts and idles the same way all summer and I don't ride in the iowa winters. I'll take a good look at the carb and try the wd40 trick to check for air leaks. Those carb boots are pricy if I remember right and mine are pretty stiff more than likely 20 years old
    Tweaker likes this.

  10. #9
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rokon84 View Post
    I have never heard of an adjustable lever
    s-l1600.jpg

    Just makes it easier to do on the fly .....
    littletommy, Tweaker and Ken like this.
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

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  11. #10
    Senior Member frog13's Avatar
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    What's your elevation......above sea level.
    May need to install larger main jet.
    Yes , shim the needle ( all aspects of carb tuning should be in the " sticky""). 2-2.5 turns out on the pilot screw usually does the trick. As advised above, check for vacuum leaks , especially at the carb boots , both of them. Make sure float is at proper "setting" / not sticking.
    Are you running Ethanol fuel ?. Make sure air filter is properly oiled too. Happy riding on one of the best bikes to EVER grace Earth's surface.
    Smitty Blackstone and Ken like this.

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