Did you try a new plug?
Did you try a new plug?
Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's
I don't mean to make what sounds like a dumb suggestion, but is the run switch on? I only asked because over the years Ive fixed several ATV's for people that would just turn over and not crank because they weren't getting spark because the run switch was in the off position. I'm not sure if the TW will even turn over with the run switch in the off position (im not home so I cant check) but its a thought.
Just like I've watched a few friends over the years go nuts working on carbs and checking spark because their machine died and wouldn't start back because they were out of gas.......
2007 Yamaha XT225
2003 Yamaha Banshee 350
2003 Polaris Sportsman 500
1985 Honda 350X
1969 Honda CT90
At first that is what I thought it might be. The bike was acting weird not starting when hot and I found if I just bumped the start switch it would start. It has always turned over. With the run switch (kill switch is what I call it) off bike will not turn over at all. It's doing what it should. Same with kick stand switch and clutch lever switch and neutral switch. Bike just not getting spark. According to the manual it could be CDI, pick up coil, source coil, ignition coil or a Dalit in the harness. My guess is the battery failed caused something else to fry. Just not confident in my attempt at meter testing those parts and after looking at the cost for replacing the CDI and source coil etc... I'd be nice to have a back up opinion before dropping $600-$700 into an engine with 50k of hot hard riding. I've done nothing to the engine but oil and plugs. Might be better to buy a new motor or a whole new bike. In September 2016 I did tires tubs cutch friction plates steering bearings chain and sprockets. So it would also be nice to keep this one running. 🤞
Last edited by msmiller; 03-06-2017 at 07:09 PM. Reason: Additional
Good luck. Coils are relatively cheap. The rest,CDI etc are not.
You are doing a great job of trouble shooting. The high tension lead from the coil to spark plug resistance was a little high probably old. You could replace. The source coil if measured correctly was 0. I think you found a problem.
Volt ohm meters are worth every penny.
Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.
Even for the secondary 16.89 is quite a bit higher than the 6-9kΩ it should be.
If the source coil reads 0Ω that is also not goodlike. Make sure you did that right and have good contact to the wire with the meter leads. Zero ohms means some kind of unwanted ground.
Last edited by methamphetasaur; 03-07-2017 at 02:51 AM.
Also, for future reference- when the manual says "disconnect coil from wiring harness" it just means unplug it, not remove it from the bike entirely. You have to replace fluids and gaskets now regardless whether or not the problem is in there.
Was frustrated tried to get a reading on the Green Brown wires on meter with it in the bike. Took it out to bring it to someone that knows what their doing. Funny I have yet to find that :O) Besides an oil change and a $10 gasket is much cheaper then a $270 Source coil. :O)
Last edited by msmiller; 03-07-2017 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Added line