2009 TW NO Spark full time transportation please help - Page 3
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Thread: 2009 TW NO Spark full time transportation please help

  1. #21
    Junior Member Maxpower's Avatar
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    Im far from an electrical wiz. Been racing MX and off road since 1979. Any bike that I ever had that lost all spark was because the stator went bad. Probably 4 or 5 bikes. One time the kill button was bad, i pulled it and it started.

  2. #22
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Maxpower View Post
    Im far from an electrical wiz. Been racing MX and off road since 1979. Any bike that I ever had that lost all spark was because the stator went bad. Probably 4 or 5 bikes. One time the kill button was bad, i pulled it and it started.
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  3. #23
    Member wmgeorge's Avatar
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    Well I am an electrician and have worked on a lot of control systems.... plus MC, snowmobiles and the like.

    Can someone just post or send me to a complete diagram of the electrical system? Unless the stator looks damaged as wires, burnt winding's or otherwise is more than likely ok.

    Can you also just post the actual readings you got and the readings they are suppose to be? The 16.8 reading was 16.8 K Ohms according to the enlarged pic, what was it suppose to be?

    PS when using your ohm meter do not touch the metal ends of the probe with your fingers when taking a reading. Your body has resistance that will alter the reading.

    On the Primary and Secondary coil resistance you show them both at 16.8?? I would recheck those readings and if your fingers are not on the metal part of the probe and its checked as the diagram shows.... then that coil is bad. This is the diagram for your serial number / year?
    Last edited by wmgeorge; 03-07-2017 at 01:17 PM.
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    Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's

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  5. #24
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Thanks wmgeorge. I was not aware that my finger touching the probes would effect the reading. If you want to see the what the manual says there are three scanned images on page two of this post. They specs listed are correct for any bike '01 and newer. I had brought the parts into work today and ask our shop mechanic to test them with his meter he got completely different numbers then me but they still where nothing like what the spec reads. My meter and his did not have a ohm 1k setting only ohm 2k and up. The manual states set your tester to 1k omh. Maybe this is why we are both getting weird numbers. Here is a picture of the Ignition System Circuit Diagram. Thank you for your help. MIgnition System Circuit Diagram '01 and newer.jpg

  6. #25
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Yes spark tester did not light up.... then I tried a finger.... nothing thankfully

    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    May we assume the inline spark tester did not illuminate when you tested by turning over engine with the starter motor?
    Paying attention to the units of ohms vs.kilo-ohms can you summarize what readings were, or were not within specs? Sorry, was a little hard to follow exact details reported in previous posts.

    I had same no-spark issue and fortunately friend allowed me to swap out piece by piece and test his TW ignition parts in my bike one at a time. Where do you live? Someone near by with a XT or TW may be willing to helps in a similar fashion.
    Continuity of wiring and plugs can be checked for all the ignition elements with exception of the stator assembly when the side cover is installed. Those wires may get pinched by the cover and induce an open circuit when installed, but once removed may test just fine.
    Process of elimination made me gamble my problem was either the source or primary coils. So I replaced both, bike fired right up and then I rode happily into the sunset.
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  7. #26
    Member wmgeorge's Avatar
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    The image of the diagram is very low resolution and can not be read when enlarged.

    A digital meter is a digital meter and can be confusing. When testing, if the expected reading is to be only one or two ohms then the scale should be set at Rx1 or the lowest scale available not higher. If it shows .1 or so or even 0 (zero) that means its either a complete short or very close.

    Put your meter on Rx1 and touch the probes together, and the meter should show Zero or less than 1 Ohm. When the leads are not touching it should should be OL or a very high resistance like M Ohms, depending on the meter.

    If you take those same probes and hold in your fingers you will see a reading. Dampen your fingers and the resistance should drop, meaning your a better conductor of electricity. You might need to change to a higher scale depending on your particular meter.

    That is why people standing in water, often get electrocuted while those with dry shoes do not!

    If your coil is bad, then replacing it may not be all. It failed but might have taken the CDI box with it.
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    Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's

  8. #27
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I am fearful the coil did wipe out the CDI box but the manual has not instructions for testing it. It just says if everything else checks out replace the CDI. ;O(
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  9. #28
    Senior Member Lomax's Avatar
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    On Yamaha ATV's I've ran into a situation where they would not get any spark when I would try to crank them with the electric starter but they would crank right up with the pull rope. I wonder if your bike would push start? In the case of the ATV's it was the trigger coil (pulse generator) at the stator.
    Ken likes this.
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  10. #29
    Member wmgeorge's Avatar
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    His stator I believe does two things, provides the AC that is fed to the rectifier/voltage regulator for the 12 vdc, and the separate charge coil for the ignition system. The stators I have seen that failed were either burnt up or had wires broken and both you could see. If you take it to a Yamaha dealer they are going to start replacing parts and with modern electronics unless you have a fool proof way to 100 % call the part good or bad.... thats just the way it is.

    Fred had a friend that let him start replacing parts with ones that worked, and that is how he found what was bad on his.
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    Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's

  11. #30
    Senior Member socalnative's Avatar
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    Before you start throwing money at the TW replacing parts, try to find someone close that can lend a spare or two. Or if you can get the coil or cdi checked, or re-checked by someone else to verify your findings.
    I will usually rule out safety switches, hand control switches, etc. by wiring around them, and try it with direct power to individual items and test them in place.
    I like the idea of push starting it, if you have a small hill or some lucky helper. But it sounds like you have all the cranking power you need with the new battery.
    Good luck and stick with it!
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