2009 TW NO Spark full time transportation please help - Page 4
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Thread: 2009 TW NO Spark full time transportation please help

  1. #31
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the help The first thing I tried was push starting. Nothing happened but leaving some rubber on the asphalt. Here is what I am confident about so far. After a coworker who is our shop mechanic tested all three parts with his meter, then I took the parts to Skycraft surplus Skycraft Parts & Surplus, Inc. (really cool place if your ever in Orlando and you like surplus rocket parts / electric stuff) they tested all three parts with their meter as well. So as it stands the ignition coil is bad. The source coil is bad. The pick up is good. Here's the big question if the CDI is bad as well will it damage the new source coil and ignition coil? I don't want to buy a new CDI just to find out my old one works and I certainly don't want to fry $400 worth of parts with a bad CDI. My logic thinks the CDI doesn't provide a lot of juice it just tells the ignition coil when to provide all the juice. What do you know? Cause I'm just guessing. Thanks for the help. I don't know anyone who has a TW locally. Would be concerned about messing up that bike and having to pay for parts for thier bike too. Ouch

  2. #32
    Member wmgeorge's Avatar
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    Ok put it this way. You have put 50,000 miles on the MC and now you may need to spend $500 to fix or replace parts? A new engine does not come with all the Ignition parts does it?
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    Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's

  3. #33
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Yes it is a tuff choice. Considering I just put money into (granted normal ware parts) tires, clutch, chain and sprockets. However I love this bike 5.5 years of riding it everyday and I've never been stuck on the side of the road! I know it the engine needs some love top end and timing chain and sprocket. That was going to be the next thing I did. It's paid for and it doesn't blow smoke when it's running. I'll say this I'm going to keep the bike ether way even if I get other transportation. Right now $500-$700 is more affordable then buying a car. I contacted Yamaha USA Today and they do not sell "created" engines. Buying a used one if you can find it is a big ? Who really knows what will break on it? I can't help but smile every time I ride it. Even when I get cut off by a texting driver (after a thank you to JC) I'm back to smiles. Something about being on two wheels makes you have to be there envolved with the road, wind everything around you right there and then. Worst case after doing the math $632.52 shipped from Babbitts that includes a rectifier, CDI, source coil, pick up coil, ignition coil, plug cap, new left side gasket and some replacement bolts. That's all OEM. Will check prices at a local dealer to see how they compare. Will also search here for any suggestions. Thanks again for everyone's help. This forum has saved me money time and taught me how to do everything I have done to the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by wmgeorge View Post
    Ok put it this way. You have put 50,000 miles on the MC and now you may need to spend $500 to fix or replace parts? A new engine does not come with all the Ignition parts does it?
    Last edited by msmiller; 03-07-2017 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Spelling it's tuff to type this much on a phone

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  5. #34
    Ken
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    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    Did you ever jump start it from a running car? I read that doing so can fry the CDI, even at a later date. You did state that at first it was not starting when hot, that would indicate more of a coil or CDI break down. (My past experience). As stated above, maybe a buddy nearby can help out.
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  6. #35
    Senior Member msmiller's Avatar
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    Never tried jumping it from a car. I have charged the old battery while it was connected to the bike. I had read somewhere if your battery is weak it wouldn't spin the source coil fast enough to generate spark. I also tried to start it with the charger attached. I also read a bad source coil or CDI could cause your bike to run hot. 50k miles on this bike in the heat of Florida. Pretty amazing I have not hard anything else burn out before.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    Did you ever jump start it from a running car? I read that doing so can fry the CDI, even at a later date. You did state that at first it was not starting when hot, that would indicate more of a coil or CDI break down. (My past experience). As stated above, maybe a buddy nearby can help out.
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  7. #36
    Member wmgeorge's Avatar
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    If jump starting or charging the battery would damage your CDI box then it would have happened at the time it was jumped. If you have no spark then all the kick starting (if it had one) and push starting in the world would not work. Your inline spark tester that lights up is the same one I have and it works fine for troubleshooting.
    Retired guy Central Iowa, Lots of Hobby's

  8. #37
    Senior Member ssgtrillium's Avatar
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    I would replace the ign. coil and source coil and if that doesn't work then spend the bucks and get a CDI.At least in the US the parts are cheaper then up here.My CDI set me back almost $400.
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  9. #38
    Senior Member Rider21's Avatar
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    I don't know how your ignition parts were tested but in my experience resistance testing is unreliable. I don't see two coils going bad at the same time either. I'd put everything back together and check to see if you have any juice going into the ignition coil from the source coil while spinning the engine. If not, I'd replace the source coil. If so, I'd replace the ignition coil. If still nothing I'd then replace them both. I would only replace one thing at a time. Best of luck.
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  10. #39
    Senior Member socalnative's Avatar
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    I re-read your first posts and reviewed the supplemental manual.
    I didn't see if you checked the primary resistance of the ignition coil.
    But looking at your picture the secondary is a little high, according to the manual. It shouldn't matter which way the leads are but the secondary ohms are approx. 6.3 to 9.5 k ohms and you show over 16 k ohms.

    I'd switch your multimeter to the 200 ohm setting also not the 2K or 20k. We are looking for small resistance number.
    Then re-check it with the leads on the post, on the side opposite the spark plug wire, to the small slip-on post. That should be .18-.28 ohms. That's the primary.

    Switch back to the 20k ohm setting and then go from the same spark plug wire to the post on the opposite side. That should be 6.3 to 9.5 k ohms. That's the secondary and what you previously read over 16 k.

    The I don't think that 16k is way out of the limits for coils. The manual has a lower reading but if the primary is in the range I'd make sure there power is getting to it then check elsewhere.

    p.s. your pickup coil number looks fine.
    Last edited by socalnative; 03-08-2017 at 09:07 AM.
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  11. #40
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Note: Folks should zero, or calibrate their ohmmeters frequently even if it is an auto ranging unit. I would check before each and every one of these TW ignition diagnostic tests for a needle type, and at least once for a digital DMM.
    Understanding the basics of digital multimeter calibration
    Last edited by Fred; 03-08-2017 at 09:11 AM.
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