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  1. #1
    Junior Member ethan wilkinson's Avatar
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    Where do i start.

    Hi guys,

    Thanks in advance for any advice given. Im Ethan and i have loads of issues with my bike (tw125) atm and am looking for some advice as i am off for 4 days from today and wanna fix what i can.

    So the Issues are:

    1. bike likes to cut out sometimes when i change gear normally second just dies when im going along but hitting the ignition restarts the engine no problem (once or twice a journey sometimes less).

    2. this is quite recent and is worrying me my chain came off last month and because of the lack off tools i had on my i tried to remove the crank case as i only had allens/hex and sockets on me and soon as i gave it a tug oil started pissing out is this normal? does the oil need to be drained first as i cant remember if have taken it off this bike before. a few weeks later i started having proper issues namely my bike would splutter and die after going flat out for a bit when i decelerated coming to a stop and would not start again without choke but could just be that it took a while to start again this seemed to go away when i check my oil which to my surprise there was none and filled it up. i filled it up a month before this and there was no oil spill or even drips where i park my bike every night to indicate a leak. now on my way to work last night it died once oil level is fine. however i have noticed the last 2 days my bike seems to not be able to handle going up a hill even a slight one at speed literally manage about 20ish mph it loses its power. (i know the tw125 is a bit gutless but i can normally keep speed going up hill like 45/50mph).

    any tips or advice would be great as i dont want my bike to die haha love my tw great bike had it for a year such a fun bike i wanna get a 200 when i can spare the money.

    P.S sorry about the punctuation etc, im now in the 11th hour of my 12 hour night shift and my brain hurts haha.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    The oil leakage when you loosened cover is because the output shaft has an oil passageway that feeds lubricant to a bearing on the very outboard end of the shaft. Thus the cover has an oil sealing gasket too. If you lay bike on it's side you can remove the cover for servicing without much oil loss. TWs are somewhat unique in that removing the left side cover for any reason often necessitates also servicing the bearing, seals and gasket.
    As far as the engine dying and loss of power I can only guess. Possible ignition related? CDI?
    Lights, Action, Traction....Let's Ride!
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  3. #3
    Junior Member ethan wilkinson's Avatar
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    hey Fred, thanks for your reply. Servicing the bearing, seals and gasket? is that difficult to do? (im not too bad with stuff like that) as i think it may be leaking still as the top of the crank case is always shiny so may be worth giving it a once over making sure everything is good.

    Possible ignition related? CDI? the bike seems to be starting ok wouldn't really know how to test that more. However, the electrics on the bike are looking pretty ghetto. I have had the bike for about a year, and for about 9 months the clutch and kickstand safety never worked and now they do. ( I didnt even know it had one until one friday i got on my bike to go home from work and it wouldnt start because i was in the habit of starting it and then kicking up the stand haha drove me spare until i put the stand up and it kicked over fine.) So could be it the kickstand safety killing the engine for a sec? is there a way to get rid of this? but when the bike cuts out i just hit the ignition and i carry on no problem.

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  5. #4
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Welcome to the board

    Your cutting out issue could be related to a few things — but as it seems to be an intermittent thing it will be a pain in the arse to find.

    First thing to look at is the two cut outs that sprang back to life — the clutch and the kickstand. Chances are the connection is dodgy, and changing up from first to second is likely to set it off. Fortunately, simply shorting out the two wires on both items will eliminate the relevant switches.

    Sputtering out at full whack is likely to be a fuel issue, eg the float bowl can’t keep up with the flow rate. There are two ways to go about this, the tank end of the equation, and the carb end.

    Taking the easiest fix first, get hold of some Redex carb cleaner from your local parts shop, and try putting just a cap full in a gallon of fuel. This fuel additive will dissolve the thin film that builds up over time and clogs the petcock filters and the carb jets. Follow the instructions on the bottle carefully, and don’t put too much in. One cap full to a gallon is a good starting point, and as some of these bottles will do four full car tanks, find the smallest bottle you can.

    https://www.holtsauto.com/redex/prod...ystem-cleaner/

    71aLEJ1SgoL._SL1500_.jpg

    It will take time to run through your fuel system, so give it time to work, and use the bike as normal while it’s doing its job. You should see some improvement in a couple of hundred miles of use — if so — you’re off the hook as far as this one goes.

    If the Redex doesn’t work, you’ll have to do it manually, starting with the tank filters. Remove and empty the tank, then remove the petcock assembly. The bit you are trying to get at is the fine mesh screen that acts as a filter. This screen can become blocked by an almost invisible film caused by petrol, and will need brushing clean.

    20-8038.jpg

    Proceed using a tooth brush, and be as gentle as possible as the plastic mesh can become brittle over time. A cup full of half Redex and half petrol can be usefull at this point, but watch out for fumes so do it outdoors.

    Re-assemble, add Redex and fresh fuel to the tank, and test run the bike

    If that doesn’t fix the flat out throttle flat spot — read on, because I’m going to do this in several posts during the day ……
    admiral, ejfranz and littletommy like this.
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  6. #5
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    The next thing to do, is to give the whole bike a good service — the whole thing should only take a day, and will also eliminate the air filter as a cause of high speed lag. If the bike isn’t getting enough air (or too much) at full chat, this can effect performance. Might as well simply replace the foam filter with a new one as they’re cheap as chips anyway — and don’t forget that these foam filters need oiling first as that’s how they pick up and stop fine dust particles. Make sure you wring out nearly all of the oil out of the filter before fitting — if it still feels damp, it still wet — when you can’t tell if it’s wet, damp or dry, you’re good to go. Some filter kits come with the oil supplied, it all you get is the foam, two-stroke oil is about the right viscosity (or 20W)

    You have two breather pipes — one on the engine, and one from the bottom of the air-cleaner — make sure both are clear

    The rest of the service involves checking valve clearances, change the spark plug, change the oil and clean the oil filter (re-useable), check the steering head races and wheel bearings for play, (all that good stuff) — which leads us to chains ….

    By the sound of it, “my chain has left the building”, it’s knackered, and so are the sprockets. Changing the rear sprocket is a piece of cake (well, logical anyway), but don’t forget to replace the three bolt retaining tabs at the same time as they rarely go back on intact twice. But because changing the front sprocket is such a pain (oil pisses everywhere as you may have noticed), owners tend to ignore it, which is probably why your chain jumped ship earlier.

    First up — you will need something known as “JIS” screw drivers (Japanese Industrial Standard). A lot of the screws heads on the bike, (notably the crankcases), may look like standard Posi-drive heads, but they’re not — they’re actually JIS heads. Go onto Ebay and the JIS drivers are widely available, and will make the job a lot easier - otherwise you’ll end up butchering the whole thing.

    Second up — read this thread carefully Chain and Sprockets Replacement Pictorial as it also deals with the seal change while you’re in there. There are only two oil seals and they cost £2.30 each — you’ll look pretty silly if they fail shortly after you stich the patient up this time round, so “belt and braces” time — change them while you’re in there.

    One last thing before you replace that left hand crankcase cover — that big round jobby in there is a magnet, and will try to throw you off your game. The problem with that is those wires that lead from it, as they provide the power to the wiring loom, and to the CDI. Pinch those wires, and your engine is deader than the proverbial parrot. Be careful — very careful …..

    I don’t currently have access to the service manual, but if you run into any tech problems, PM “macbig2k1” who is the guru of all things TW, including the 125.

    Get all of this done and we’ll have a starting point for anything else that crops up — because the above is all the cheap stuff that needs attention anyway — after this it gets complicated should problems persist (eg carb and CDI).

    Good luck — and if you have any questions then post away — we’re here to help.

    If this lot gets your bike sorted then happy days — if not, then carry a tow rope while we take it to stage two ……

    Tweaker, admiral, ejfranz and 2 others like this.
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