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Thread: Tire tube nut locations.

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    Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    Tire tube nut locations.

    I am putting two new rear tires on my Tw 200's and I'm not really sure what order the 2 nits and tapered washer go, please help?

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    Senior Member lbxr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboyjeff View Post
    I am putting two new rear tires on my Tw 200's and I'm not really sure what order the 2 nits and tapered washer go, please help?
    It reallly does not matter.... I generally only use a nut on the outside to retain the valve stem as I install the tire. After I air up the tire I leave it loose underneath the cap so I can tell if the tire is rotating on the rim and reset it it before it tears the valve stem off.
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    Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    Thanks Lbxr, I have had these 2 Tw's for 27 + Years and have never had the rear tires dismounted before yesterday, I was surprised to see they came with tapered washer next to the tube and then a nut all on the inside and then a second nut on the out side. Im thinking what good could the tapered washer do when its not even up against the rim.
    Ill bet there is not to many folks doing tube repairs on these on the trail. I struggled with 18" Tire irons, and of course I managed to puncher one of the brand new tubes. So today I will be starting all over.
    Funny thing both original Tubes look as good as the new ones, the Rim Rubbers are dried out and might have fell apart in the next couple years if I had not replaced them.
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    Senior Member lbxr's Avatar
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    I have always reused the tubes on my TWs, even a couple of 1987 models....13 hp is just not that hard on a big tube like that! I also run a KTM 300 that is pretty hard on tubes, especially when I run a radial trials tire at lower pressures. The tube comes out looking distressed with balls and strips of rubber clinging to it. Some might suggest some talcum powder or??? as a lubricant, but I have never bothered....

    Also an Old Timer's trick is to toss out the rubber strip and wrap a run of good quality duct tape over the spoke nipples instead. The idea is to just protect the tube and this allows a little extra space for mounting the tire and is less likely to become displaced.

    Another Old Timer' trick is to watch some YouTube videos on tire changes! There are a few subtle tricks that make a big difference on the ease of tire changing...
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    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    If the tube looks good and holds air I reuse them. Even if they don't look so good but hold air I reuse them. No doubt someday I will be sorry but it hasn't happened yet.

    And I use one nut on the outside of the valve stem and I leave it loose. Very loose.

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    Last edited by elime; 04-15-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Funny thing about tube life, they seem to last longer inside the tire than on the shelf
    While selecting parts for my inevitable Moab break-downs I grabbed a never before used spare tube that had been sitting around only to notice it was cracked and failing where it had been folded from the factory unknown years before. Likely death due to ultraviolet light? I teasingly call it ultraviolent light when I see how it can degrade all sorts of allegedly stable materials.

    As to the tapered washers I alsways assumed their purpose was to minimise possible tube contact with sharp edges around the nipple's nut or hole in the rim.
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    Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    That settles it, Im going too put one of the old tubes back in place of the one I punctured.
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    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    I agree, tubes last longer in the tire than they do in the garage or emergency kit. I wouldn't hesitate to use an old tube, but I did get burned one time by doing so.
    My MC guy ordered the wrong tube when I got new tires so we elected to use the old rear tube. The old tire had never had a leak problem and we were just replacing it due to age. New tire, old tube, next morning flat tire. Back to the shop and he swore he couldn't have pinched the tube. We took it apart and found a hole in the tube and then went back to the original tire and found the cactus spine that had been in it for who knows how long and even penetrating the tube, but not leaking until we took the tube to a new tire and left the offending spine in the old tire to be discarded. Moral to story, if you are going to move old tubes, move all of the stuff that's filling their holes as well. Or at least check the tube for leaks before you install it even if it had air before you took it out of the old tire. Stuff happens.
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    Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    Good news, I dismounted the tire that I thought I punctured the new tube in, I tested it in the Mules water trough, no leaks. I think what happened was I was using windex for Lube to mount the New tire and some got between the Tube and the tire and maybe a little air too, thats why I was seeing a couple bubbles coming out of a spoke. I hope if any of you have this happened you won't be so quick to think you punched your tube.
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    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboyjeff View Post
    Good news, I dismounted the tire that I thought I punctured the new tube in, I tested it in the Mules water trough, no leaks. I think what happened was I was using windex for Lube to mount the New tire and some got between the Tube and the tire and maybe a little air too, thats why I was seeing a couple bubbles coming out of a spoke. I hope if any of you have this happened you won't be so quick to think you punched your tube.
    I have had that happen -- I guess air gets trapped between the tube and the tire and slowly leaks out. I have learned to be patient. I wait a day or two and if it hasn't gone flat by then, if the air pressure has remained constant, then I proclaim it all a success and I am done.
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