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Thread: Broken Drain Plug

  1. #11
    Senior Member AGman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elime View Post
    How did your mesh filter get that bad?!
    Ken likes this.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    How did your mesh filter get that bad?!
    Someone put the screen in backwards and it got crushed. It wasn't me. The bike came that way.
    AGman likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  3. #13
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Both Ken and Fast Eddie have good points. Click type torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle two thirds of their range. I'm lucky, I can go over to Les Schwab Tires and have mine checked for free. (Not calibrated, just checked). Then I can write down a correction factor for future use. I have dropped my 1/2 inch once or twice in the 30 years I've owned it and I sometimes use it to break loose bolts or nuts, which is a real NO NO, but I set it way higher than I expect the break loose force to be. Very bad, but I no longer work on aircraft, so the penalty clause is much less!
    Dryden-Tdub likes this.
    Rocky
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  5. #14
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    It looks like the oil drain cover is made of cast zinc and that may be the reason so many are having trouble getting if off at times.Two different metals. I think Yamaha saved some pennies instead of making it out of aluminum. Has anyone tried putting aluminum anti seize on the threads? I think that would stop the stiction on the threads. Another option and farkle opportunity would be a cnc 'd aluminum oil drain cover.
    Last edited by Tweaker; 05-12-2017 at 10:18 AM.
    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  6. #15
    Member Fast Eddie B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweaker View Post
    Has anyone tried putting aluminum anti seize on the threads? I think that would stop the stiction on the threads.

    Just beware that torque values are for "dry" fasteners, unless otherwise specified.

    Of course, good luck with "dry" threads on an oil drain plug! Still, anti-seize could have some effects and might result in an over-torqued plug.

  7. #16
    Senior Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    I had a Inch pound Torque Wrench that did not click well torquing my bolts that hold the primary cover on my Harley. It was a really bad Day.

  8. #17
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    I am pretty positive this is not an over torque problem but a dissimilar metals issue. If the drain plug were made out of aluminum or brass we wouldn't be seeing these threads on striped, rounded off and stuck drain plugs. Just sayin my opinion. That's why I mentioned aluminum anti seize. Try it no more stuck drain plugs. Even better would be an aluminum drain plug end of problem.
    socalnative likes this.
    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  9. #18
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    I put a new o-ring on the "new" plug. As I tightened it I could feel the o-ring compressing. When I got to metal on metal -- as in the outer edge of the plug contacting the block -- I made it just a little bit tighter, maybe just 10 ft-lbs. I will see what it is like to remove in 1500 miles.......
    Tweaker likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  10. #19
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    This is a great thread BTW. Nice job on removing a stuck oil drain plug elime. We also had members giving parts to other members ( even though earlier) and some great info on torque wrenches. Which everyone who works on their bikes should have one or two in different ranges. There have been too many mentions about rounded off and stuck drain plugs. I have done only 6 oil changes 3 on two bikes and have been very careful on tightening the plugs. Out of those 6 one was extremely tight. Maybe the problem is over torquing becase oil is on the threads of the plug. but I think as I said earlier it is because the plug seems to be made from cast zinc and those threads are getting stuck on the case due to there being two different metals. That's just my crazy idea. On my next oil change I am going to try some anti seize on the drain plugs. I already have some aluminum anti seize that I use and put a tiny amount of on my spark plugs threads. In my VW days sometimes the steel threaded spark plugs would react in the aluminum head and strip the threads until we put steel thread incerts in the heads.
    Moabman and elime like this.
    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper Bars one with risers, DG oval pipes. rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Aserbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, weld on foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  11. #20
    Senior Member Moabman's Avatar
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    For what it is worth, I've found the wrench that comes with the TW works wonderfully on the oil drain plug.
    I guess it doesn't help much if you didn't get a kit, or if you want to torque it to a specific measurement. I tighten it to snug and call it good.
    elime, Tweaker and Dryden-Tdub like this.

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