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My Tw Has Strange Power issues. Slows down on highway and speeds up at random.

5K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  jtstdub 
#1 ·
I got my tw200 last year to learn and have fun on both the street and the trails. Its a 1998 model. It worked fine for about 2 weeks after i got it, after that its been constantly losing power, at all speeds, but really noticeable at highway speeds, i'll be doing 90 with the ability to take it up to 100 (Maybe a little more) but all of a sudden it will cut the speed down to 80 or less, sometimes I have to give it everything it has just to keep it at 80... Sometimes it will bog down to 80 for 10 seconds then fire back up to 90, sometimes it will stay at 80 for 10 mins... Sometimes it starts with this slow issue then clears up for a bit, sometimes it starts perfect then starts slowing down after a bit of riding.... getting scary to drive now. Got this thing for its ruggedness, but its been nothing but problems for me. I've changed Coil, Spark, Pulled off Carb (Like Brand New), Tightened Chain, Checked fuel flow from tank. Screen On Tank. Bikes in very good shape, I want to fix this but seems like im changing everything on the bike, now im looking at a new battery (sometimes this causes issues even though It can start itself on battery. Im assuming its the original battery) or the Cdi box. Would like to buy another bike next year (never buying used again, what a nightmare this has been) and not sure if trying to fix this is even worth it. Anyone have this issue before... ive searched the forums, im down to the battery/cdi. All I want to do is ride my bike but at the same time I dont... this really really sucks. Had to be my first bike, i never seem to catch a break. Can't even do my M test next year unless this is fixed. I want to take it to a shop but whats that gonna end up costing me? & If I get a crappy shop nothings gonna get fixed anyway. Would they be able to do tests on any of this stuff, or will they just be part swapping like me? Cause I can do that myself.
 
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#2 ·
First off, just for clarification, please confirm you are reading KPH and not MPH :). It's not the battery. Could be the CDI, not likely as they rarely fail. When it happens, immediately pull over and open the gas tank to see if it "sucks" air, could be a blocked vent. Also, check the foam on the seat pan that seals the air box, if it's wonkey or missing it could cause this issue.
 
#4 ·
Just removed the air box cover, foam seems like its where it should be, its in really good shape too. Drove down the road for a little bit, it seemed to be slow the whole time. Bouncing between 80 n' 90 but not really getting its power back at any point in that short ride. When it gets/loses power it happens fast, like instantly ill be forced to that speed, kinda like pulling back the throttle hard. It is not a slow happening, its instant POWER or Half Power. I dont want to be doing 90 behind someone not paying attention and have my engine die out to 80 or less because im not holding the throttle at full when its running properly. Pulled off the gas cap anyway but diddn't hear any suction at all.
 
#7 ·
Get an old timing light, hook to the battery and spark plug, tie down the trigger, mount it on the bars or somewhere you can see it flashing and go for a ride. If the flashing breaks up or stops during the episode, most likely it's the CDI. And if so, are there any riders near you that you could swap CDIs for a bit to verify?
 
#9 ·
If the fuel tank is not venting, it will affect fuel flow, which may appear normal, with engine off or at idle speed.
When it is struggling, does it hiss when cap is loosened?

Just one possibility
 
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#10 ·
I checked the hoses, I thought you meant the little tubes under the carb when i first read that but then I checked the bigger hoses connecting to the carb, they are flexible and in good shape. Went for another 20 min ride n' was still sluggish around 80 to 90 until right when i was getting back its like it kicked into turbo and went up to 100 plus no problem. This was on a long flat run, no hills, just kicks in like it was missing something. This problem has been constant since last year, i've always put premium in the tank and i've used seafoam a few times just to be sure. I was told Shell is the only gas station that has no ethanol in its premium. Could this be an issue? I've been getting mine from esso, and a few other places just to see if gas was the case... I don't have a timing light and kinda live in a small town, no other tw's, i've never really been able to go very far on the highway, having a top speed of 80 (at times) is brutal and takes all the fun out of it for me if any other vehicle is behind me. Cant ride with anyone else in this condition, cant do my test. Kind of embarrassing too. Might take it to a local guy once to see if he can figure it out, if not i'm gonna have to give up, with all the extras and parts i've had to put on this thing plus the initial cost and extra issues im basically at half the price of a new one... should'a got the new one.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Float level ok? Air filter clean and oiled slightly? Kink in gas line or old gas filter?
 
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#13 ·
Glad someone mentioned the air filter. If it was my bike I would be expecting to find half a kilo of birdseed brought in by mice. Airflow can suck the loose seeds up against the filter progressively choking off the air flow resulting in intermittent loss of power.
How is the spark plug’s color? It should show whether engine has been running lean or rich while mis-behaving.
 
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#14 ·
Just incase: One time I was riding along at 100 kph as you were and all of a sudden I lost all power and could not cruise above 70 kph, rode it back home at that speed. Turns out the screws on the part of the carb with the spring had came loose and it wasn't fully sealed. Tightened them back up and everything was fine.

Your symptoms aren't quite the same, but you should probably check all the carb screws just incase.
 
#15 ·
No gas filter, ran without cap for a trip, same issue. Pulled off line and let drain, drains nice even with cap on. Airbox is super clean, nothing in there and connecting hoses are clean. Put a new spark plug in just to try, diddn't change, basically ran around 80 - 85... felt it try to fully engage a few times, but only lasted a second then back down to 80-85. The old one i put in last year was a little black around the threads, not coated in carbon or anthing and the spark area was pretty clean..no black.
 
#17 ·
There are two things that will cause this – blocked main jet – and the advance on the CDI

If it is a malfunctioning CDI, it will be the advance becoming intermittent – unfortunately, the only way to prove or disprove that is to swap it for a known good CDI – new ones cost around $250 – you “could” throw it at a Yamaha dealer (no fix – no cost for the part)

“If” it is the main jet, then it’s likely a piece of crud that finds its way up there on open throttle, but can’t quite get through, hence the “rinse and repeat” aspect

Far less likely, is a blocked fuel cap vent causing a vacuum – easy to check – run flat out with no fuel cap and see what happens

Try draining the fuel bowl out through a bit of tissue paper and take a close look at it – plus you can run some “seafoam” through a couple of times to see if that has any effect. If that doesn’t do it, then take out the petcock and clean the two screen (gently) with a toothbrush – and if that doesn’t work, you’ve just run out of the cheap options – time for paragraph two ……..
 
#18 ·
Hello and welcome to the forum

The TW200 has a fuel filter screens INSIDE the fuel tank that usually gets brittle and blocked up after 10 years or more, I had the same problem with my bike and after I removed them and installed an in-line fuel filter my problem was solved.

Just unscrew the pet cock from the fuel tank and take it out and then you can inspect the filter screens and I'm sure they will be in a bad condition

 
#21 ·
OP states in post #15 that he has good fuel flow through carburetor and out carb’s drain.
Thus info r.e. possible petcock screen issues while likely helpful to others seem unrelated to FurnaceDoc’s power loss.
 
#22 ·
You need to borrow another carburetor from a working TW to make sure it is the carburetor. I bet it is without swapping.

Troubleshooting from the manual:
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They say this is a starting point and troubles could be other things.

I have heard that this spring missing leads to erratic performance:
Auto part Line art Suspension part Automotive fuel system Transmission part

Product Brass Circuit component Copper Metal


Just a wild guess, maybe the starter plunger or choke thingy has gone bad. Unscrew it a take a look and see if you can see anything wrong.
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Good luck. Keep at it and I am sure you will fix it.
 
#24 ·
My brother bought an older but immaculate 250 Honda to learn on. It did this while practicing; he hit a fire hydrant and went flying, and did serious damage to his neck. He had a shop fix it-- it was the throttle linkage to the carb. He was told it was typical on Hondas and Harleys. I have never heard of this on a TW. I always figured the double cable-- one faster and another to slow it would prevent this. Perhaps check you cable tension and springs?
 
#25 ·
Just got back from SoCal
115 F in Baker and climbing.

Re-reading through this thread, my first thought is an intermittent vacuum leak...not a small one which only affects idle, but a major one, such as described in post 14
Second thought is electrical: Either a poor connection involving CDI or intermittently poor ground or failing CDI, per post 17
Third thought is debris on petcock filter

Might not be much help, but this issue has not been reported resolved.
 
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#26 ·
Agree about the CDI... Loosing it's advance...

My understanding is the advance is just eletronics within the CDI... The 2 pickups provide the pulse and the CDI does the delay/advance.

Uggg.

How to isolate? Timing light along with you... Check timing at the time of failure...uggg.. Or.. swap parts...

Jim
 
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