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TW200 Technical help
Started by Centerline at 03-05-2008 11:08 PM. Topic has 42 replies.
  
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 03-05-2008, 11:08 PM
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Centerline
 
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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DISCLAIMER: The following thread is for entertainment purposes only. Don't attempt this at home. If you do, it is at your own risk.
My Yamaha TW200 is a model year 2006 North America spec machine.
It runs with stock sprockets.
I am using a DirectHits spark enhancer.
The exhaust system has already been modified with an FMF Power Core IV muffler.
The airbox is as yet unmodified. Due to the less restrictive exhaust system, I chose to re-jet the carburetor with a 130 jet, versus the OEM 126 jet.
Thanks to Babaganoush and his thread
http://tw200forum.com/forums/18477/ShowPost.aspx
for the technical knowhow.
Thanks to Monkeystone69 for this.....
I found shims that will work nicely for raising the needle on the Teikei carbs. They are available from an industrial supply house called McMaster/Carr. They can be found at www.mcmaster.com.
The shims I purchased were part #99040A300. They are available in packs of 25 washers. You can order them in varying thicknesses from .001" to .016". I ordered mine in a .010" thickness. The washers are made from 18-8 stainless steel. They are .125" I.D and .187" O.D. I paid $7.81 plus shipping for the pack of 25 washers. They fit nicely with no binding.
And thanks to the "discussioners" in the thread.
This deals with taking off the carb, shimming the jet needle and changing the main jet on my 2006 TW200 with a TK carb. It is probably similar to other model years, but I have no other TW experience, and actually less than 600 miles experience on the one I have.
Perhaps I will post photos later of the beginning process, taking the carb off. Didn't have my camera with me at the time, so will walk/talk thru the beginning.
1. Turn off fuel petcock.
1 1/2. Remove the left side trim panel under forward side of seat. Three attach fittings. The top forward fitting is a friction bayonet one, on the lower edge of panel are two philip head screws.
2. remove fuel line to carb. (It is on TIGHT)
3. On right side of carb, loosen the locknuts on the throttle cables (2cables), remove the cables from their captive guides, then remove the cable ends from the carb throttle actuator. You will get them off, just a little bit of cable wrestling.
4. From the left side, with a philips head screwdriver, loosen the metal clamp that secures the carb to the airbox snorkel on the aft side then loosen the clamp that secures the carb to the cylinder head intake manifold at the front..
5. Wrestle the carburetor out of the rubber boots whose securing fittings you have just loosened. Figure out the correct orientation to get the carb out of the left side of the bike, take the two drain lines along with the carb.
The picture below is the top of the carb. The silvery metal lazy W fitting is where you wrestled the throttle cables free.
We are going to open the top of the carb by removing the two screws, one of which has already been removed.
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03-05-2008, 11:20 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: Topoff.JPG
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Okay, the vacuum chamber cover has been removed and we are looking down into the piston valve where the jet needle lives...underneath that big ass spring, the vacuum chamber spring. The outside circumference of the piston valve is a soft pliable silicon-like material, the inner portion a hard plastic.
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03-05-2008, 11:27 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKeightsmall.jpg
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Now, take the big vacuum chamber spring out and put it where you can find it again.
You are looking down into the piston valve assembly and onto the top of the jet needle holder
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03-05-2008, 11:34 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKninesmall.jpg
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Gently grasp the outer edge of the piston valve and pull it straight up out of the carburetor. The jet needle can be seen protruding beneath the piston valve.
You are doing good. Place a finger under the exposed tip of the jet needle and push it up so that you can grab the white plastic jet needle holder. There is a small spring under the jet needle holder between the holder and the needle. Don't lose the small spring as you lift the white plastic holder clear of the jet needle. You will remove the jet needle white plastic holder, the small spring and the jet needle itself. They are all in the next photo.
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03-05-2008, 11:46 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKtensmall.jpg
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Now the piston valve has been placed back into the carb, but the needle holder, spring and the needle are out. Put the holder and the small spring where they will not be lost. If you drop the little spring back into the piston valve recess, it will wedge itself in tight. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
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03-05-2008, 11:52 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKsixsmall.jpg
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It has been discussed elsewhere in other threads that raising the jet needle will be very helpful when also changing the main jet. Gathering the info from the guys who have gone there before, I chose to raise the jet needle by .05" Take the needle and slide the white nylon spacer off. Place 5 of the .01" stainless steel washer/spacers onto the needle and slide the white plastic spacer back onto the jet needle.
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03-06-2008, 7:58 AM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKninesmall.jpg
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Place the small spring bck on the needle, place the needle jet holder over the small spring and needle, and put the needle assembly back into the piston valve. It is easier if you have about 3 hands.
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03-06-2008, 8:02 AM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Replace the piston valve assemply back into the carburetor. Watch the flexible circumference of the soft piston valve outer edge.
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03-06-2008, 8:05 AM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Flush into the carb all the way around. It fits flush into the recess.
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03-06-2008, 8:08 AM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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That's all the time for now. To be continued later today.....
However a little teaser....
Road the beast this morning for about 20 minutes.
Y-E-S. Freaking just added 50cc to the beast!!!! A really worthwhile improvement. It is a noticeable to the seat-of-the-pants, butt dyno. The beast is putting out some real improvement in power, thruout the briefly tested operating range. But that is the result of the needle position change and a new main jet. Stay tuned...pun intended.
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03-06-2008, 9:36 AM
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sevs
Joined on 01-01-2008
Atlanta
Posts 617
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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Very nice and informative post Centerline.
Thank you for the extra effort.
Willy.
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03-06-2008, 3:36 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKsevensmall.jpg
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Thanks Sevs.
So get the top all buttoned back together.
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03-06-2008, 3:41 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Turn the carb over and look underneath...removing the 4 philips head screws. The throttle stop screw assembly and its bracket will flop around out of the way, not to worry.
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03-06-2008, 3:51 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKonesmall.jpg
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When you remove the bottom of the carb, the float bowl the needle jet and holder are actually filling the tapped hole for them. In the photo, the main jet holder has been removed and the main jet which was screwed into the top of the holder has been removed.
I actually did not drill out the idle mixture cap until I had put the carb back together, to keep debris out.
On the carb bowl mating surface can be seen residue from the carburetor bowl gasket. It needs to be scraped off and a new gasket put on. I got in too much of a hurry and did not replace it. Don't make the same mistake. When I order the gasket to fix my mistake, I will post the part number. The carb does not seal well now and after sitting overnight, the area around the old gasket is damp with fuel.
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03-06-2008, 4:04 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKtwosmall.jpg
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Here we go, the main jet, just sitting on the corner of the carb for comparison. I don't know who makes it, but the local Yamamaha shop had a box of them. The thread fits perfectly the threads of the TK main jet holder.
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03-06-2008, 4:21 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKthreesmall.jpg
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Another view of the original and replacement jet. It would be helpful when you visit your shop to buy a new jet, that you take old jet with you.
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03-06-2008, 4:39 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
Attachment: TKfoursmall.jpg
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Okay, screw the new main jet into the main jet holder and screw the main jet holder back into the carburetor.
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03-06-2008, 4:43 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Put a NEW GASKET on, put the float bowl back together. It was after this step that I drilled out the cap on the idle mixture screw.
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03-06-2008, 4:54 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Wrestle the carburetor back into its home. Pretty tight fit, but it goes back in from the left side. The airbox snorkel is just a whole lot of entertainment, trying to get it around the intake tract of the carburetor, have fun. Then you need to tighten up the circular clamp fastener around the snorkel. That is some fun too!
The fitting into the cylinder is pretty, as is tightening its clamp. Replace the fuel line from the fuel tank, and reroute the two drain hoses that go down underneath.
Reattach the throttle cables over on the right side. But note that in the pictures, the placement of the unattached cables is incorrect. The cable on the top should be on the bottom. Get em in the correct spots then tighten them in.
Replace the left side cover.
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03-06-2008, 5:32 PM
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mrgizmow
Joined on 10-21-2006
Paradise, Calif.
Posts 2,216
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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Centerline, that was GREAT....... Thanks so much. Boy, all the new TW folks will really be able to get things dialed in quickly. Take care, Gerry
Be safe my Friend.
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03-06-2008, 7:34 PM
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Centerline
Joined on 12-10-2007
Dallas, Texas
Posts 453
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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Mikuni, okay. Maybe I will try a 132 or 134 or136. 140 ??
I do need to do your Ram Air mod, thanks for the link. I will have it apart again when I get a new float bowl gasket. Maybe up-jet then, raise the needle again and do Airbox mod.
I forgot to mention that I did not move at all the idle mixture screw. Rang the beast out pretty hard and was surely impressed.
Ran it to 50mph indicated in 4th full throttle, shifted to 5th and ran it to 70 indicated. There was more to go but didn't see the need.
The bike ran fairly easy on a short freeway run on level, 600' elev, 45 degrees F, 15mph headwind. Held 65mph indicated and there was a little throttle left. The real trial will come with a climbing grade into a headwind.
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03-06-2008, 7:34 PM
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Awfulkanauful
Joined on 01-11-2008
Posts 689
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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Centerline...Thanks. I sure will refer bck to this when needed. I know this took some time to put a great post like this on here and appreciate it.
Im out of this Fucking Place !
Chopper Charles has done everyone here a HUGE injustice buy dropping the ball on a properly moderated forum ! He realy doesnt deserve any loyalty from anyone by doing this !
Adios.....!
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03-06-2008, 9:37 PM
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Babaganoush
Joined on 03-23-2007
SouthCentral Pennsylvania
Posts 960
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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Hi Centerline,
My advice is go slow on the jetting and needle changes along with air box modding. It is real easy to change two or more things at once, have it run like crap, and have to backtrack to where it was running good. I have a 130 Mikuni in there now with whatever needle spacing I last mentioned and the airbox mod. Take it slow and do the Air Box Mod first without changing your carb settings from what they are now (running well). You should notice as much boost as the carb mod gave you, or the DirectHits install. You can then tell if it is running thin (lean) at any RPM/load. I just recently read where the max HP was supposed to be 16 at 8,000RPMs and max torque was at 7,000RPMs. You may eventually end up with a 132.5 or 134 jet that works due to your FMF exhaust install. Just be aware that more gas in the carb doesn't necessarily mean a better running engine. Other forum members have installed large jets and then wondered why the engine ran like crap. I have a 132.5 Mikuni jet ready to install if I feel the need, but for the moment, I am happy with the 130. Good Luck. ![Big Smile [:D]](/emoticons/emotion-2.gif)
Dave
"LOUD VALVES SAVE LIVES" -back side of Royal Enfield T-shirt
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03-06-2008, 11:28 PM
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MO1235WP
Joined on 06-05-2007
Warsaw, Missouri
Posts 115
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Re: Pictorial TK carb Main jet, needle spacing change
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GREAT JOB!
Now THAT'S a pictorial I can follow!!!
Thanks much
Love many trust few, always paddle your own canoe...
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