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TW200 Technical help
Started by Al B. Bach at 03-03-2010 3:11 PM. Topic has 16 replies.
 
 
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03-03-2010, 3:11 PM
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Al B. Bach
Joined on 02-20-2010
USA
Posts 25
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I am getting ready to make a 1500 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. I am driving a 32ft. class a motorhome. I really don't want to have to rent a trailer to haul my new (to me) TW so I have been looking at reciever mount racks for it. There is some concern about the weight of the rack and bike on the back of the motorhome because it is an older model. Basically, it's a 1 ton Chevy chassie but the GVR is 18500 lbs so it's built overloaded already. 300 to 400 pounds on the back of it may be too much. No one really knows.
In my research I came across the Dandy Hauler on ebay. I had never thought of hauling a motorcycle with the rear tire down and at first I didn't think much of it. It would be great though because it would certainly take care of the weight issue. I have done some research on hauling a bike like this and it seem pretty 50/50 as to wether it's a good idea. There are concerns of the shifter bouncing into gear and then ruining the tranny. One guy pointed out that if you strap the clutch lever down then it would not matter, but I have noticed that the TW is just like my Star in that even with the clutch pulled it is still trying to pull a bit.
Another option would be to remove the chain. If I remove it, do I need to get the tool to take apart the chain or can I just loosen the rear and slip the chain off the rear sprocket?
I like the idea of this rack but what do you guys think? I know I am new here but there seems to be a lot of very knowledgable people here. Any other suggestions would be great.
Later,
Carl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-trailer-carrier-tow-dolly-hauler-hitch-rack_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19ba6d2f6bQQitemZ110501900139QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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03-03-2010, 4:41 PM
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srs713

Joined on 09-14-2008
Wichita, KS
Posts 440
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If you can live with the tire & wheel bearing wear, stress on the head bearings, and the fact that it's back there running over anything in the road...
The chain has a master link. Buy extras & you can pop the chain off & replace it easily. A few times and you will get good at threading it thru the front sprocket.
Definitely don't back up.
Stephen S. '07 TW200: 15/50 sprockets, O-ring chain, D2Moto foot pegs tweaked carb (127.5 jet, 0.019 needle shim, idle screw @2.25), Rubbermaid "Action Packer" on homemade brackets
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03-03-2010, 7:13 PM
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rodrey

Joined on 05-14-2009
Simi Valley, Ca
Posts 744
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Don't forget that you won't be able to back up. Agree with pulling the chain all of the way off. I've got a hitch mounted carrier on my 35' class A, with no problems.
TW-less for now... Proud Dad of a Marine 3 1/2 gallon Clarke tank Banshee rear shock XT250 forks 21" front rim XT250 speedo cluster XT225 kickstand Duro Power Grip ATV tire Opened up exhaust CRF 450 handlebars GPS bar mount
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03-03-2010, 7:41 PM
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sandman-zzzz

Joined on 10-16-2009
Zanesville, OHIO
Posts 124
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You need this.... If you live Around central OHIO, I have it on C's List now for $125 But if you promise to put a TW on it, you can have it for $100... Anybody? It fits a 2in hitch. Here are some specs on it.. http://www.amazon.com/MasterBuilt-Receiver-Mount-Motorcycle-Carrier/dp/B00067MVBS
2000 TW200 - 14/47 sprockets, DID Gold X-Ring chain, Jimbos windshield, ProGrip Model 797 Grips, Mobil 1 4stroke 10w-40 Synthetic
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03-03-2010, 10:12 PM
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Al B. Bach
Joined on 02-20-2010
USA
Posts 25
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Thanks guys. I had not considered the wear on the bearings and the thought of hitting something with it could very bad.
I talked to a RV mechanic and he seems to think that the coach should be okay but he is worried about how well the hitch was installed. He's in Kansas so he can't say wether or not it is good. I am going to look for someone local that can take a look at it and see if they think it looks like it was installed correct.
If it looks good then I will go for a hitch rack. I am also looking at a tailer I just found on craigslist. I will call on it tomorrow.
Later,
Carl
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03-04-2010, 6:25 AM
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wbader

Joined on 03-14-2008
Alberta, Canada
Posts 330
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Carl:
Is there a hitch shop where you live, they would be able to inspect your hitch. A class II is only up to 350lbs tongue weight and a class III is 500lbs. A small trailer would do well, although it going to cost more than a hitch carrier. A small trailer would tow nicely behind your RV and you could put other stuff in it to take some weight out of the RV.
I don't like those towing systems for bikes as they put all that wear on the tires and bearings. Your rear tire is not rated like a car tire for wear - you going to put 1500 miles on the tire before you even ride it.
Regards ...Wes
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03-04-2010, 6:43 AM
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OakCliffThumper

Joined on 07-04-2009
Dallas, TX
Posts 80
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If you're hitch is able to take the weight, you can make further mods to help. And I agree, get it evaluated to make sure it can take the weight on the tounge. That's just good advice.
I just had a set of SuperSprings (http://www.supersprings.com/supersprings_overview_general.asp) on my 2005 Tacoma, and they helped a great deal. Before I put them on, I would bottom out the rear suspension on even minor bumps. I'm really happy with the way the truck rides now.
At about $400 installed, though, you may be better off with a trailer. I don't really have a place to keep a trailer, so I spent the $ and kept the hitch mount.
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03-04-2010, 8:54 AM
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talon
Joined on 09-04-2008
Posts 323
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One time I pulled a wr430 husky into a motorhome. It liked riding inside just fine.
The Voice of America, Glenn Beck
Calling an illegal alien an 'undocumented immigrant' is like calling a crack dealer an 'unlicensed pharmacist'
The United States Government, changing citizens into subjects one day at a time.
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03-04-2010, 9:37 AM
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Cototaxi

Joined on 06-08-2008
Cotopaxi Colorado
Posts 113
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Since you already feel your motorhome is tail heavy......here is another option. I myself don't like things behind me anymore than necessary. For the price of a used 2in receiver hitch and an hour of shop time....you could have one installed on the front of your motorhome. Then your Handy Dandy carrier and bike would be upfront where you can keep an eye on it. It also makes backing up another trailer a piece of cake at times. I also wouldn't discount the suggestion of just loading the TW inside like another poster suggested. Two people could easily manuver it up and inside for a one time trip.
TiredIrom
"There is no such thing as over Kill" 5 1987 TW's 1 1989 TW 1 1994 TW 1 2002 TW Boeing 450 Super Stearman Harley 1942 WLA Harley 1994 FLSTN 2 M35A2 Deuces 1966 Haflinger 1951 M38 Willys
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03-04-2010, 11:53 AM
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Al B. Bach
Joined on 02-20-2010
USA
Posts 25
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I would just haul it inside but the doors on most older motorhomes are way to narrow.
Hauling it on the front is something I would like to try but I worry about blocking too much air into the radiator. I have seen more than a few coaches with bikes on the front but they are almost always diesel pushers so blocking the front is not a problem.
My brother just got off the phone with a guy in Phoenix that has a 3 bike trailer for $400. It looks pretty good. I think we will probably go for it. My brother is going to ride up and look at it. I'll let everyone know what happens later.
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03-04-2010, 12:38 PM
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wbader

Joined on 03-14-2008
Alberta, Canada
Posts 330
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Dont put a TW on the front! I have a front hitch on my Dodge 1ton and I carry a honda CT70 on the front. The hitch weighs about 100lbs, the rack weighs about 120lbs and the CT70 weighs 150lbs. That's the most I would consider putting on the front axle.
Regards ...Wes
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03-04-2010, 5:23 PM
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jclovesu

Joined on 06-22-2006
Madras, Oregon
Posts 610
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wbader wrote: | | Dont put a TW on the front! I have a front hitch on my Dodge 1ton and I carry a honda CT70 on the front. The hitch weighs about 100lbs, the rack weighs about 120lbs and the CT70 weighs 150lbs. That's the most I would consider putting on the front axle. |
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I agree. My dad put a hitch on the front of his Dodge Cummins Dually. We put my TW on the front and he had a fifth wheel trailer on the back. It blocks the headlights, restricts air to the radiator and restricts vision. Front suspension just isn't made to handle such weight so far forward. Overall bad idea.
Go with a cheap trailer from Harbor Freight or store of that type. The local hardware store here sells a cheap trailer for $239. Much easier than the hitch rack job and then you have a small trailer for other things.
Tim
Cyclerack, Richchet Skidplate, Tusk Bar Risers, Tusk Hand guards, UFO Raised Fender on Custom bracket, Custom Seat, D2 Pegs, DURO ATV Tire, Maxxis 6006 Front Tire, DID O-Ring Chain, Walmart Cooler tail bag, Ken Sean folding mirrors, Pro Grips.
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03-04-2010, 6:43 PM
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krashdragon
Joined on 03-05-2010
Ft Worth, Tx
Posts 6
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Hi... yeah, I know this is only my 2nd post here but I have moved a few bikes here and there... To be honest, a trailer would be the best way to go. If, as I suspect, your RV is a P30 chassis something or other, and if it's already overweight, adding more weight to either the front or back end would not be the best thing to do. It's not the weight itself while running that generally causes problems.... it's the STOPPING. You also need to make SURE you have enough air in your RV tires.
A trailer will add less weight to the RV than any other means of moving the bike. Just make sure to keep the heaviest weight on the FRONT of the trailer. Rear wheel towing would put an extreme amount of stress on a small bike, both on the rear and the front.
Get the hitch checked out, and if you can't find a trailer, you can always rent a ramp trailer from UHaul. While they have bike specifc trailers, they're for local use only. ok, I work for UHaul...but having your own trailer is way better. Yes, I have my own, saved about $4000 in trailer rentals in 4 years...<BG> Hope the one you're checking out is good.
The TW isnt' very heavy, use a piece of 2x6 at the front of the trailer to block the front tire against. Use 2 racheting tie downs on the triple tree. NOT on the handlebars. Two more tie downs on the rear just to keep the back from jumping around. Info pbly not needed, but... do not cover the bike, the paint/whatever will get scratched.
Make sure ALL the straps are pulling FORWARD. That's according to the directions from Pingle's bike chocks. It's the compression on the front that holds the bike. Most dealers have what are called "soft ties". Loop one around each side of the triple tree and hook your tie downs to that. I've had bikes in a trailer for a couple of weeks, didn't hurt anything. Ok, what I've moved....2002 Bandit 1200 from Ohio to California and back, 2005 FJR1300 from Ohio to Texas and then Kentucky, 06 Triumph Speedmaster from Ohio to Texas, 03 Softail Deuce back and forth from Ohio to Texas a couple of times. Dang, that sounds like I don't even ride the danged things! <LOL> It's just that you can't ride a bike and drive a vehicle at the same time.
Hmmm, it's quicker to load up and tie down a bike than it is to type it out! <G>
Now if it were me, I'd rent a 6x12 or 5x8 covered trailer, and get a bunch of weight(stuff) out of the RV. On the bike, I'd take off the handlebars,empty the gas tank, and put the bike inside. Your RV door should be about 22- 23.5" wide...<BG> Oh yeah.... dont' back up! Take care Mary aka Krashdragon
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03-04-2010, 8:12 PM
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Al B. Bach
Joined on 02-20-2010
USA
Posts 25
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Thanks for the advise! Your correct about it being a P30. I couldn't believe it when I was going over the GVR's to find out that it was just a 1 ton frame.
I did not know about all tie straps pulling forward. The only bike I ever hauled was a 2000 Kawasaki Drifter. We hauled it from LA to Kansas without trouble on a trailer from Tractor Supply.
My brother looked at the trailer and it was good. He went ahead and told the guy we would take it. Now I have to get a new draw bar and some straps. I plan on getting all that in Phoenix when we go through there next week.
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03-05-2010, 4:27 PM
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TWrider
Joined on 03-13-2008
NE Ohio
Posts 116
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I think the real wheel tow hitch would be ok for the TW if it has a tapered roller headset, otherwise there may be some premature wear. The fact you can't back up is also a downer.
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03-05-2010, 7:10 PM
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QWERTY
Joined on 11-22-2006
Posts 2,360
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Glad to hear you went for the trailer. A very wise choice. be sure to repack the bearings and properly inflate the tires before starting your trip. I used to do failure analysisfor a trailer manufacturer and those, plus overloading, are the top 3 reasons people have trouble with trailers.
The very best tie-downs I have ever had came from either Home Depot or Lowe's. They only come in black. They have flat hooks on both ends with spring-loaded safeties so if a strap goes a little loose due to rough roads it will not fall out of it's hole. Stout ratchets with rubber handles are easy and comfortable to use. The straps have built-in soft ties, too. They are not cheap compared to some of the crap sold for tiedowns, about $25/pair, but your bike will not fall.
Many straps these days simply suck. Any strap with cam buckles sucks. Ratchet or go home. Many straps have hooks that are cut off about 45* of rotation too short. Any movement at all and these hooks come out of their holes. Make sure hooks have a full 180* of rotation and that they are aligned with 90* on each side of a straight pull.
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03-05-2010, 9:46 PM
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Al B. Bach
Joined on 02-20-2010
USA
Posts 25
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Thanks man! I'll be sure to check Lowes for them. And you don't need to tell me about the importance of repacking your bearings. I had a bearing freeze up on my tag axle on the way out here. It was not a pretty stite. Lost everything from inside the back plate for the brake out. Had to have new a axles shaft welded on after being stuck in the middle of Oklahoma for nearly two weeks. Could not find parts since everything but the wheel had to be replaced.
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Yamaha TW200 Tr... » TW200 Forums » TW200 Technical... » Towing a TW?
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