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TW200 Technical help
Started by oakley144 at 03-01-2010 3:50 PM. Topic has 9 replies.
  
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 03-01-2010, 3:50 PM
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oakley144
Joined on 02-20-2010
Canyon, TX
Posts 96
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I don't know how many people have got there tw or a new tank and it's rusted on the inside, but I found a quick easy fix.
Step 1: Clean the tank out with hot water and a strong degreaser.
Step 2: Buy two bottles of The Works toilet bowl cleaner. Make sure before you start to remove the fuel petcock as The Works is an acid and reacts with the aluminium that its made of.
Step 3: Fill the tank about half way with water. Add both bottles of the works. MAKE SURE YOU DO IT IN THIS ORDER!!! ACID INTO WATER!!! Let it sit for about an hour. Do not get The Works on the paint, it will stain it.
Step 4: Drain the tank and rinse with clean water, preferably with pressured water to agitate all the gunk in the bottom of the and flush it out.
Step 5: Add 70% Alcohol to the tank to get the remaining water out of the tank. Let sit for about 10 min.
Step 5: Enjoy your new rust free tank!!
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03-01-2010, 4:02 PM
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TW-87
 
Joined on 02-01-2010
Manitoba, Canada
Posts 305
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Thank you. Something to do while I wait for my new CDI !
TW-87
1987 TW200, 15/44 sprockets, DID O-ring chain, Award winning, "Quick Release" Action Packer :-))
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03-01-2010, 4:19 PM
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jwiereng
Joined on 11-27-2009
Niagara , Ontario CAN
Posts 66
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I have also heard of people using a handfull of loose bearing balls and shake them around in there with the degreaser or acid
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03-01-2010, 5:45 PM
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oakley144
Joined on 02-20-2010
Canyon, TX
Posts 96
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Yeah but the bearings and nuts are super loud and a pain in the you know what to get out of there.
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03-02-2010, 7:38 AM
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rodrey
Joined on 05-14-2009
Simi Valley, Ca
Posts 744
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Good tip!
I've used pool acid, water, & railroad gravel before with good results.
TW-less for now...
Proud Dad of a Marine
3 1/2 gallon Clarke tank
Banshee rear shock
XT250 forks
21" front rim
XT250 speedo cluster
XT225 kickstand
Duro Power Grip ATV tire
Opened up exhaust
CRF 450 handlebars
GPS bar mount
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03-02-2010, 10:54 AM
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TW-87
Joined on 02-01-2010
Manitoba, Canada
Posts 305
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look at this, especially the comment about phosphoric acid vs. muriatic acid by Bill Mikolay in Nov, 2008 near the bottom.
http://www.finishing.com/336/11.shtml
Also this:
http://tw200forum.com/forums/37278/ShowPost.aspx
TW-87
1987 TW200, 15/44 sprockets, DID O-ring chain, Award winning, "Quick Release" Action Packer :-))
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03-02-2010, 8:03 PM
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lizrdbtrh
Joined on 07-01-2009
Desert, California
Posts 356
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Nonsense. Muriatic works just fine.
I store mine for reuse in a plastic paint bucket. Once the rust is gone I simply drain the acid into a plastic paint bucket with a secure lid. I've probably done 10 tanks with the same acid, adding more if it appears to be working slowly.
First, remove your petcock and fashion a blockoff plate for it out of hard rubber or plastic. I use some hard rubber gasketing material with a gasket cut from an old inner tube, held down by the original petcock screws. On some tanks with really wide petcock flanges you may need to build a backup plate it of thin gauge steel to get a good seal.
The hot tip is to get the inside of the tank dry as quickly as possible after treating.
Once treated, I drain the tank into my bucket, flush the tank with clear water, then wash it out with hot, soapy water and rinse again.
I preheat my oven to its lowest setting beforehand. Try to keep it around 150 degrees to save the paint, then pop it in the oven immediately after rinsing, allowing the oven heat to drive off the moisture. Make sure you leave it in there long enough to drive all the water out of the seams, etc.
Then either fill it completely with gas or slosh some Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF or wd40 around in there, coating all the surfaces if you aren't going to use it right away.
If you're concerned about disposal a large box of baking soda should neutralize a couple gallons sufficiently. If you're still squirrelly about it, dilute it with an equal amount of water, then pour it down a drain. It will be no more acidic than a can of soda at that point.
I reuse mine.
Powdercoated '87 frame, disc front, XT350 tank, tall bars, risers, '03 motor and electrical, kickstarter, cut ATV rear rack, TCI front rack, upgraded wiring, kickstart, no safety switches, D2moto pegs, 8" headlight, Bighorn2, 55t, etc. Constantly in flux.
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03-02-2010, 9:18 PM
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Boisebiker
Joined on 02-17-2010
Boise, Idaho
Posts 13
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+1 I used muriatic acid on mine with no ill effects. I am diligent about keeping the tank full.
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03-08-2010, 8:53 PM
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dalsco
Joined on 12-18-2009
Utah
Posts 117
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Thanks for the info. i used a gallon of carb cleaner and shook it around and let it set for a few days and it worked okay. still a few rusty areas but got the majority out may try this "Works" next time the tank gets close to empty!
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03-09-2010, 2:28 AM
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Turborob
Joined on 05-06-2008
SA Australia
Posts 265
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I've done my tank with acid and then a sealant. All good so far.
American folk, do you get Kream or POR15 over there or similar? Here they're popular.
TW RR's - http://tw200forum.com/forums/90082/ShowPost.aspx
http://tw200forum.com/forums/63833/ShowPost.aspx
http://tw200forum.com/forums/70131/ShowPost.aspx
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Yamaha TW200 Tr... » TW200 Forums » TW200 Technical... » Re: Gas Tank Rust Fix
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