[cmc]

I had thought for years about riding a motorcycle and finally decided to bite the bullet.

I've gone about it by the book: I signed up for the beginner MSF course, but by 2pm on Saturday (after Friday evening in class), I got off the bike. The instructors were terrific and very encouraging, but as they acknowledged, the range was the tiniest one in the state and I found myself overwhelmed with trying to figure out all the moving parts: I was having a terrible time shifting, and operating either the throttle or the front brake (rather than both) while also navigating the course and watching out for my fellow students. I felt like I just needed a stretch of straight road that I could ride up and down again and again so that each part of the mechanics of riding could sink in and build on themselves. I live on just such a dirt road, so I decided to get my permit, then get a bike, then come back for (the instructors suggested) the intermediate MSF course and then get my license.

Research led me quickly to the TW200. Given my size (I'm about 110, 5'2" with short legs) and the kind of riding I expect to do (I'm not looking for speed and have no aspirations of doing technical trail riding, but I'd love to be comfortable having fun on snowmobile trails and feeling secure on the many hardpacked dirt and paved country roads all over my area (Southern Vermont), I didn't need anything terribly powerful, and I didn't want to invest a fortune in anything. The TW seemed like the perfect choice and, as demonstrated by this forum, it's beloved by all who ride them.

I brought my bike (a 2010 with 1300 miles on it) home on Monday and rode it up and down my road 3 times that afternoon, and just tried to do that again now. What's the problem? I'm scared of it. I've already (gently) dropped it twice, once on Monday (and I had to wait for someone to drive by b/c I couldn't lift it myself) and just now before I'd even made it once down the road. This time, I did get it back upright, but it took all my courage to just get back on the bike and bring it back the 50 yards home. I'm thoroughly intimidated by the bike's weight and, yes, even by this small bike's power.

I'm certain, having done a little bit of posting in the forum pre-purchase and having read a lot of peoples' posts, that there are many of you who will offer me words of encouragement. I am grateful for the desire to do so, but what I'm hoping for is concrete advice. For example,

- Should I have started out with a mini, mini, mini dirt bike that I could easily lift up and that wouldn't hurt if it fell on top of me just while I'm figuring out how to operate one of these machines?

- Are there any tricks or strategies any of you who, like me, discovered you were much more fearful than you thought you'd be?

- Am I silly to be intimidated by even this machine? Any women my size out there?

- Whether my private road idea was fine, but a private dirt road, with sand, rocks and hills (and without a wide space in which to turn around in) may be part of the problem (i.e., does pavement give people confidence that dirt can't?)

Thanks in advance.

[pmtg]

A smaller bike (like a 50cc) would be worse. The TW is the bike for you.

The TW, even for experienced riders, is known to have a sub-par front tire for gravel riding. And if your tire pressures are too high as well it'll only add to the issue.

The TW was my first bike. I took it to a neighboring, paved parking lot and road it a lot there taking turns and accelerating and getting a good feel for it. I still pick spots on the ground as I'm riding on the road and swerve around them to keep up on reaction and control. The pavement is a confidence builder!! The gravel will take it away.

Practice makes perfect. Grass is probably better than gravel, but pavement is where you need to be. That will allow you to focus on juggling the brake, clutch, gear shifter, throttle, turn signal, horn, high beam, etc. rather than worrying about the next bump in the grass or the next rut in the gravel.

You went and jumped on the bike hoping it'd all go smooth. After a couple falls, some frustrations dealing with the throttle and levers, it didn't go that smooth. You lost confidence in the process. Now it's the uphill battle. Physically you have it, it's a mental game now. Don't worry, you're not alone.

Relax your grip. A death grip is not needed on the handlebars. Your operations will be smoother when relaxed.

But most importantly, get to a paved area where your brain can focus on the hand/foot operations, not the bad manners of the bike on the gravel.

***EDIT: by paved, I don't mean the open road with other vehicles. You need to master these skills before sharing the road with others. What I meant was a large parking lot, dead-end road with no traffic, long paved driveway, etc.

[Rodney]

cmc, on 20 July 2011 - 04:48 PM, said:

- Should I have started out with a mini, mini, mini dirt bike that I could easily lift up and that wouldn't hurt if it fell on top of me just while I'm figuring out how to operate one of these machines?

Yes. Not a mini but something like a CRF100F may be better. The main disadvantage you have on the TW is weight, as you mentioned, and the fact that there are more things that can get broken. However, the TW is still a good bike to learn on.

- Are there any tricks or strategies any of you who, like me, discovered you were much more fearful than you thought you'd be?

The main trick is to practice. Take it one step at a time.

- Am I silly to be intimidated by even this machine? Any women my size out there?

Any bike can be intimidating to a beginner. Take your time and you'll get it. My teenage niece took a few tries to get it, but now she can ride my TW fairly well.

- Whether my private road idea was fine, but a private dirt road, with sand, rocks and hills (and without a wide space in which to turn around in) may be part of the problem (i.e., does pavement give people confidence that dirt can't?)

Stick to the dirt until you are 1000% confident. Try to find an open field or pit to ride in. Somewhere that you have plenty of room to maneuver and no worry of other vehicles.

Thanks in advance.

[secretStash]

Nice. REAL nice. First two responses are conflicting - Dirt vs. Pavement. Grass is good if you are falling a lot; dirt is a NO NO and will feel wishy washy and can be unpredictable to a new rider. Ride around in a grass field until you feel like youre having fun. Then do that some more - practice stopping, starting, etc. Then move on to parking lots once you have the hang of it.

On dropping the bike - TRY THIS - if the bike is laid down, stand as close to the bike as possible where the tank meets the seat, FACING AWAY from the bike, SQUAT with a STRAIGHT BACK, firmly grip the frame under the seat with your left hand and the handlebar with your right. Then stand up, pushing back as the bike rises. A woman your size can EASILY stand a hog weighing twice as much as TW using this method.

Do yourself a favor if you havent already - buy a set of leather chaps and jacket plus a FULL FACE helmet. I mean, unless you dont like your face and skin, and would like to donate them to the latest pavement painting project. Then by all means dont. It will also keep the bike from burning you if it falls over on top of you.

-sS

[lizrdbrth]

You've only dropped it twice? You RAWK!

Seriously, keep at it. Drop it. Pick it up. Repeat as needed. I guaranty within 2 weeks you'll laugh at yourself for even thinking of quitting.

The TW is the perfect learner's choice. My wife is exactly your size, worked through the same fears, and cost me most of my spare brake levers. lol. Don't give up.

Don't make us come over there...

[biglefti]

Everyone has to start somewhere. Reading your post makes me smile because I think I am a macho biker. However, I started riding when I was 13 and put 6000 miles on a Honda 50 in my back yard. I don't know how many times the bike threw me, but it was in the hundreds. On the other hand, I did learn how to handle a bike during the 2.5 year I was limited to my back yard. As soon as I got my license, I graduated to a 250 Scrambler and I thought that was about the fastest thing out there. Little did I know how little and gutless they really were. 150 bikes later I ride a Goldwing 1800 and two TW 200's. I love the T-dubs and I think of them as little bikes now, but I've been thrown more from them than any of the other bikes I have owned. Of course, all of the tumbles have been pilot error, and none the fault of the machines. That said, I have taught a couple of gals how to ride and they do have a different challange then the guys. First of all, they usually aren't as strong as guys, and secondly you don't hear too many gals yell "hey watch this" just before they jump off the roof of their house. So I have found that girls prefer to as you say ride the straight line. It is my opinion that the straight line doesn't do to much for developing motorcycle skills. What I usually do with someone very new to riding is teach the basics, clutch, throttle, brakes. I usually will do this on a straight line, but as soon as they look comfortable with the controls enough to add some turns, I lay out a rather large figure 8 and have them turn left around one circle of the 8 and right around the other one while coming to a full stop and then restart where the X is formed between the circles of the 8. It gets boring fast, but it will develope quickly the basic skills you will need to handle the bike. As you get more comfortable, you can speed up, and yes you will have those moments where you find yourself not in 100% percent control. Those are the times that you will actually develope the skills that may one day save your life.

[OverTheHill]

Hi CMC, do you have a local motorcycle shop? If you do go down there in a car,tell them you are new to motorcycles. They will help you,they want your business. Do not give up,it takes time. It is all in keep your balance. Us guys may have had a head start, like on skateboards,bicycles, and water-skiing. I know you can do it. Keep us posted on how you are doing.

[yoter]

i say paved road. tires stick better.

too much power? use less throttle! you can do this, dont be afraid of that pig just get out there and putt for a while. i remember feeling how you do right now... granted i was a little tyke on a tote goat, but the feeling is the same.

[cmc]

I'm loving your responses! They've all made me smile, or take a deep breath, or laugh out loud. Better yet, all of your thoughts and suggestions are helping me to think strategically about the next time I get on the bike.

Biglefti: You're absolutely correct: pigs will fly before I fly off the roof of my house! And your caution about relying too much on a straightaway is duly noted. As you said re teaching your women friends, however, I'd like to reach a modicum of comfort with clutch, gear shift, brakes, etc., before starting into figure 8s. By the way, one of the problems I've had is finding neutral. And I mean I've had a ton of trouble finding it. Am I drawing too much on my car-driving experience (i.e., I learned long, long ago not to ride the clutch in my car and so it's weird to do it on the bike). Thoughts on that?

Rodney & PGillis: Until you suggested that I ride on grass rather than gravel, it never occurred to me that I might be able to take advantage of the huge and newly hayed field on my road. I've already left a message with the owner to see if he'd mind my using it as a training ground. Thanks for that.

Pgillis: Your comment about my grip is something I suspect I'm going to come back to again and again, especially since I've freaked myself out a couple of times by suddenly realizing that I'm revving the engine without intending to at all, the only good thing being that I had an equally strong death grip on the clutch.

Secretstash: One of my MSF instructors demonstrated that lift (after I gently dumped my bike during training ), and I watched some YouTube videos of it, as well. Getting a firm footing on sand/dirt/rocks proved difficult, however, particularly since both times the bike was already on a little bit of a downward slope -- which is partly why I dumped it -- the ground had fallen just a hair away from my foot. I found that turning the front wheel and handle bars up and lifting with them, although I felt unsteady doing it, at least put it upright. (And I have already learned to immediately turn the fuel valve and ignition OFF when I dump it). I do, however, plan to practice the lift you've described when I have it on grass. As for chaps, it's not something I really thought of before, I can't afford to to throw a lot of cash at biking attire before I'm sure I have the you-know-whats to stick with this.

lizrdbrth: Glad to hear about your wife's experience. If I thought I could get you guys over here to help me shake off my fears, I'd do it in a heartbeat!

OvertheHill: The closest bike shop is roughly 30 miles away. I'm headed there tomorrow to try to get a proper fitting full face helmet (turns out the new S I got with the bike is too big; I need an XS or an XXS or maybe even a youth sized one (!) if I can find one that isn't ridiculous looking). I'm not sure what you mean, however, by guys in school with cycles. ??

Very grateful to all of you for your time, enthusiasm, good humor, support and suggestions.

CMC

[secretStash]

Another GREAT suggestion - Have someone tighten down the throttle-stop screw for you (or do it yourself?) That will do a thorough job of keeping you from going too fast for your skill level. When you get comfortable; adjust it back a little to add more speed.

-sS

[Trailerpark]

The hay field would be perfect It helps to have the manual car experience, but when people get nerves they grab so on a bike you lose the flow as so much is in your hands. When you get in the field get to 2nd or 3rd and cruise for awhile to find the throttle response then go up or down 1 gear only for a while longer. This way you will get the clutch action and timing (it does come down to timing) do that til your BORED then play through more gears. I would say 1hour will do it. Put it away, wipe the smile off your face repeat the next day and it will happen faster, and so on til you start to hunger for more travels. What you have been dreaming of is different than the reality it will come to you. The neutral is just pain like most things the more you want it the harder it is to get!!

[drob]

@ CMC

At the MSF course that my Wife and I took last year, the #1 reason I saw that people were dropping their bikes was from GRABBING the front brake either in a turn or even on a straight - since you said you had a 'death grip' on the handle bars this may be a contributing factor...

Using 1 or 2 fingers on the brake lever helps to some extent, but you must squeeze the the lever smoothly, progressively increasing the tension as the bike shifts its weight forward, thus giving you more traction on the front tire, helping you to stop.

Also try to get in the habit of using the foot (rear) brake always. And the suggestion on doing figure 8's until your sick of them is +100 - start out slow and very wide and brake before the turn - One gal at our MSF course rode increaingly well until the last test and grabbed the brake in a turn and BOOM down she goes.

Keep safe and keep trying.

[qwerty]

ATGATT. It keeps your parts bagged for the EMTs.

CT70H. Best first bike for a vertically challenged individual ever.

[sinophilia]

You already received plenty of good advice but I have to chime in.
I am 104, 5'4" and let me tell you, this is exactly the right bike for us! But don't be fooled by those who say that it's as easy as a bicycle. They say that because they are big and tall, but I never had that feeling until after a lot of miles on my TW. It is small and lightweight, but the engine is pretty rough and it might take a bit to modulate clutch and throttle properly. If you had a scooter of the same size you wouldn't have any problem at all - but when you are learning and find yourself in the wrong gear it is just not easy.

Practice is everything, and I swear that while for the first year I could barely touch the ground, now I put my foot down flat and even bend the knee a bit. I didn't get any taller, it's just that over time you learn how to sit on the bike and control it with your body. Something that helped me boost my confidence a lot was working on the bike (I have old TW's that needed lots of repairs and maintenance). I learned to move it around at ease and take it up and down the stand by myself. You just get used to it! I may still have a tiny knot in my stomach before leaving for a long trip, but then when I sit on my TW I feel at home.

I usually ride on tarmac so I can't tell you anything about trail riding, which is entirely another world (where you are supposed to drop your bike a lot), but I can recommend a few videos that really helped me understand a few things - look for "Motorman" Palladino on Youtube. He got me thinking, if he can do that with that kind of bike I can do it with my TW no doubt!

Oh, and this is me practicing for my motorcycle license: video (had to adjust the idle much higher, otherwise on that TW125 I couldn't do that in first gear for the life of me! lol)

[admiral]

Can't really give you much more advice than what others above have already given, but a couple of weeks ago I dropped by TW twice...while nearly standing still. I've been riding for years and it still happens. And mostly likely will happen again. And that's why I shouldn't buy anything expensive...I might drop it!

[ericj]

cmc, on 20 July 2011 - 08:03 PM, said:

I'm loving your responses! They've all made me smile, or take a deep breath, or laugh out loud. Better yet, all of your thoughts and suggestions are helping me to think strategically about the next time I get on the bike.

Biglefti: You're absolutely correct: pigs will fly before I fly off the roof of my house! And your caution about relying too much on a straightaway is duly noted. As you said re teaching your women friends, however, I'd like to reach a modicum of comfort with clutch, gear shift, brakes, etc., before starting into figure 8s. By the way, one of the problems I've had is finding neutral. And I mean I've had a ton of trouble finding it. Am I drawing too much on my car-driving experience (i.e., I learned long, long ago not to ride the clutch in my car and so it's weird to do it on the bike). Thoughts on that?

Rodney & PGillis: Until you suggested that I ride on grass rather than gravel, it never occurred to me that I might be able to take advantage of the huge and newly hayed field on my road. I've already left a message with the owner to see if he'd mind my using it as a training ground. Thanks for that.

Pgillis: Your comment about my grip is something I suspect I'm going to come back to again and again, especially since I've freaked myself out a couple of times by suddenly realizing that I'm revving the engine without intending to at all, the only good thing being that I had an equally strong death grip on the clutch.

Secretstash: One of my MSF instructors demonstrated that lift (after I gently dumped my bike during training ), and I watched some YouTube videos of it, as well. Getting a firm footing on sand/dirt/rocks proved difficult, however, particularly since both times the bike was already on a little bit of a downward slope -- which is partly why I dumped it -- the ground had fallen just a hair away from my foot. I found that turning the front wheel and handle bars up and lifting with them, although I felt unsteady doing it, at least put it upright. (And I have already learned to immediately turn the fuel valve and ignition OFF when I dump it). I do, however, plan to practice the lift you've described when I have it on grass. As for chaps, it's not something I really thought of before, I can't afford to to throw a lot of cash at biking attire before I'm sure I have the you-know-whats to stick with this.

lizrdbrth: Glad to hear about your wife's experience. If I thought I could get you guys over here to help me shake off my fears, I'd do it in a heartbeat!

OvertheHill: The closest bike shop is roughly 30 miles away. I'm headed there tomorrow to try to get a proper fitting full face helmet (turns out the new S I got with the bike is too big; I need an XS or an XXS or maybe even a youth sized one (!) if I can find one that isn't ridiculous looking). I'm not sure what you mean, however, by guys in school with cycles. ??

Very grateful to all of you for your time, enthusiasm, good humor, support and suggestions.

CMC

Personally I'd say try not to think so much about it. I mean think about what you are doing step by step but too much analysis won't help. As far as the fear, remember that the fear is NOT in the bike or the riding, it is strictly in your head so you can handle it. Keep your confidence, you CAN do this and I think part of the problem might be you are making it harder in your head than it really is.

Dropping the bike is not failure, giving up is. You won't likely get seriously hurt unless you are going fairly fast or run into (or get run into by) something. Anyone who rides much will drop a bike, usually you just get scraped at worst.

Anyway, hope this helps.

[poolsgold]

Lots of comments, but one stands out above all.. The Honda CT70H is the answer. The H means hand clutch model with a 4 speed. On a ct 70 h you can learn all the brake, clutch, throttle techniques without weight or height concerns. Find one and ride it. For the type of riding you are talking about doing the ct70h would be your ticket.

[mtngirl]

Ok girl, take a deep breath. We are the same height and I bought the tw because of it's versatility and seat height. Woman to woman I can say that you will get there with practice. You are doing the right thing asking for help and this forum is amazing as are the people on it. However, no matter what it is simply time in the saddle. Confidence comes from practice. There are youtube video's that show the correct way to pick up a tipped over motorcycle and many of them use a woman to demonstrate. When you have someone with you just lay your bike over on the lawn and practice this til you know you can do it. Don't give up. The type of riding you want to do is exactly what I do and love. Every time I go out I learn something new. I rode as a kid and just took it back up later in life and felt like I was starting all over. Continue with parking lot drills and then just take some easy straight forward rides to build confidence. Soon you will be a member of the dirty girl club. Good job!

[uktw125]

I can't really add much to the good advice already given, but remember everyone digs chicks on motorcycles (that sounds silly coming from an Englishman), persevere and you will be the most interesting person in your neighborhood.

Nobody was born with the ability to ride a motorbike, and we all made and still make mistakes.
It will all fall into place before you know it.

Remember that all the advice and encouragement you need is here at your fingertips.

[junk munk]

I think you are going through normal stuff that most if not all of us have gone through.

I started ride at age 9 on dirt bikes, and I'll tell you I had no real training beside dad yelling at me to go faster. My first time riding my Suzuki 50 wasn't even a ride. I remember standing on the left side holding the handle bars and clutch pulled in, since my dad had just pulled up and left it in 1st gear for me. Well the next thing I know is the bike takes off runs over my foot, I fall back and give it full throttle and drags me a good 20 yards before I let go. I can't tell you how many scared/stupid things I have done. I have forgotten many times, when first riding on the street, to put the kickstand down and layed the bike on it's side, and I was in highschool. My friends all laughed at me and I just said "Isn't that how your suppose to do it?"

Anyways, what I'm trying to say we all have been where you are and it is a learning process. The few adventures you have had about dropping it and being intimadated will end up making you a better rider in the end. Yes, I have many bumps, but just remember to learn from your mistakes.

Hang in there!!
fletch

[qwerty]

Okay, I'll dust of my teaching credentials and post a scope and sequence for Beginner riding Lab. Practice should be on a smooth, level surface. Exercises emphasize development of one skill at a time. At first, until the basics become habitual, it is best to come to a full stop between each attempt. Doing so allows the normal fight-or-flight psychological response to stress to stabilize.

1) Starting. Start bike, put it in gear. Focus on clutch and throttle cooperation to make bike move under its own power. As soon as bike is moving with clutch fully released, pull in clutch and roll to a stop. If necessary, dismount bike and turn it around before riding into a fence, ditch, or other obvious impediment to progress. Don't look down at the bike--eyes up and focused on the "road" far ahead. At this point it is okay to leave your feet down. Repeat 100 times.
2) Lifting Feet. Same as previous exercise. But as bike begins to move under its own power. kift feet to the pegs, then step down when the bike stops.
3) Accelerating. (Secondary objective--judging shift points by sound of engine.) Begin as in previous exercise, but once the clutch is fully released, place feet on pegs and slowly twist the throttle until the bike reaches ~15mph, then return the throttle to idle position, let the bike slow against engine compression, until the engine reaches idle speed, pull in the clutch and roll to a stop, then put your feet down. Don't watch the speedometer while accelerating--eyes up and focused on the "road" far ahead. Listen to the sound of the engine. Estimate your speed, glance down just long enough to read the speedo, then refocus on far down the "road", when you roll the throttle to idle position and see how close you are to 15mph. Adjust speed by the sound of the engine on the next attempt. Repeat 100 times.
4) Stopping. Begin as in previous exercise. Once to speed, roll the throttle to neutral position and gently apply both brakes to slow the bike. Once the engine returns to idle speed, pull in the clutch and put your feet down as the bike stops. Repeat 100 times.
5) Shifting to 2nd. Begin as previous exercise, but once the bike is up to speed, do simultaineously roll the throttle to idle position and pull in the clutch, then shift to 2nd, then simultaineously roll the throttle open a bit and release the clutch. Accelerate to 20mph. Roll the throttle to idle position, coast until engine reaches idle speed, pull in the clutch, shift to first, release the clutch gently for some compression braking, then pull in the clutch and coast to a stop. Focus on making all control inputs smooth. Repeat 100 times.
6)Shifting and Stopping. Same as Objective 4, but add coordinated braking to the deceleration portion of the exercise.
7) Countersteering. Begin as in previous exercise, accelerate to 15-20mph, then countersteer to initiate a 180* turn with a diameter of about 70 feet. Focus on 1) keeping feet on pegs, 2) looking through the corner, and 3) keeping your upper body in line with the bike (no leaning). Ride, look, turn, stop. Repeat 100 times. Repeat the exercise turning the opposite direction, 100 times.
7a) Bailing Out. This technique is a safety outlet. Begin as in the previous exercise. Mid-corner, simultaineously stand the bike up, shift your eyes to look at the road ahead, and brake to a stop. As you practice, focus on looking at your escape route, rotating the throttle to idle, and proper use of coordinated braking and downshifting. If you feel shaky at any time during the following exercises, this is how you will escape the stress. Stop, relax, refocus, try again. Practice doesn't make perfect--perfect practice makes perfect, and stress cause imperfection. Anytime the riding "gets to ya", stop, relax, refocus, try again.
8) Transitioning Between Straight and Corners and Straight. (Secondary objective: using the throttle to maintain a steady speed.) Throughout this exercise, if you feel tension, stress, or insecurity, stop and start over. It is imperative that you learn to "ride your own ride". Begin as in previous exercise, but ride an oval at steady speed. 100 laps, no stopping. Repeat in opposite direction.
9) Transitioning Between Right and Left curves. Mark a big figure-8 in your riding area. 200-foot lengths of rope for the inside of each loop is about right, providing a 270* turn with about a 70-foot diameter. The ends of the same rope should touch at a 90* angle, with 4 feet or so between the angles formed by each rope. This way you won't risk riding atop the rope and having it tangle in the chain or wheels. Ride at a steady speed a little above idle in 2nd gear, and ride the figure-8 with the rope always on the inside.
10) Transitioning Between Right Curve, Straight, Left Curve, Straight. Modify your figure-8 by separating the curves by 50-100 feet. Your corners will now be closer to 200-220*. You'll ride through one corner, straighten, ride the next corner in the other direction, straighten, repeat. focus on maintaining a steady speed, looking through the corners as you enter them, and looking too the next corner as you exit them. Eyes up, always.
11, 12, 13, 14) Tighten the ropes to provide curves with a 10-foot radius while repeating Exercises 7, 8, 9, and 10. Use countersteering technique to negotiate the sharp curves. It helps to use 2nd gear with a tiny bit of throttle and using the rear brake to maintain speed. Remember, look through and too the corners--eyes up always. The secret to countersteering is coordinated use of throttle and rear brake to prevent driveline jerking. It does take practice. Don't give up.

Well, that should keep you busy for a few days. Post up when ready for more advanced exercises.

[goldenhtr]

secretStash, on 20 July 2011 - 03:35 PM, said:

On dropping the bike - TRY THIS - if the bike is laid down, stand as close to the bike as possible where the tank meets the seat, FACING AWAY from the bike, SQUAT with a STRAIGHT BACK, firmly grip the frame under the seat with your left hand and the handlebar with your right. Then stand up, pushing back as the bike rises. A woman your size can EASILY stand a hog weighing twice as much as TW using this method.

This how I showed my wife how to pick up the TW. I took the bike and laid it on the ground and told her to pick it up. She tried just stepping up to the bike and picking it up. ha NO WAY! I showed her how to turn around grab the handle bars and frame (cyclerack on mine)squat putting her back against the seat and just stand up. Worked great she couldn't believe how easy it was. Then she tried to take a corner at to slow of speed on the grass and dropped the bike, she was able to pick it right up no problems. Keep at it, it will come in time and practice. If and when you feel comfortable shifting and breaking and it's dirt you want to ride then practice on dirt. JMO

[Bagger]

Hey CMC,
Much good stuff here. Especially Qwerty's last post.

A couple of thoughts from an old drivers (and MSF) instructor.

Start with the bike off. Know where each control is with the bike off. Be able to manipulate each control without looking at it, with the bike off.
Start the bike. (always done with the front brake engaged) Shift into first. Shift into nutral, shut the bike off. Repeat, over and over.
Do the same thing, but after starting the bike, e a s e out on the clutch until the bike just starts to move. Shift into nutral and repeat.

Often we think we are afraid to RIDE a bike and in reality we are only afraid of what will happen when we have to STOP the bike. Having tons of practice controling the clutch and brake takes that worry away.

Baby steps. Don't move on until you have the last step down and are comfy.
With this bike I would urge you to find a place where you are comfy, like your yard, and practice the above until you fall asleep. Now your ready for a slow ride around the yard. In first. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Now make a trip in second . . . you get the idea.
Then add REAR brake. Yes, the front brake is your friend and does about 70 % of your stopping, but not in your yard or gravel.

A couple of other things. KEEP YOUR HEAD/EYEs UP! The bike is going to go where you are looking. Yes, it will. If you look down . . .
if you fixate on the back of the truck or the kids swingset . . . keep your head and eyes up.

Relax.
Remember this is fun.

Quit before you are tired/frustrated.
If at all possible, find someone to share this experiance with that is only a little better rider than you are.
Don't give up. You should chat with my Wife, who started right where you are, and is now a SUPERB rider. It's taken a few years, but what a great investment of my time and both of our patience.

Please don't get frustrated. If you do, please call me before you give up! Jerry 1-509-930-6468

Bag

[cmc]

Qwerty: I'm floored. I plan to follow your handbook, play by play and I will give you a holler when I'm ready for more. You may have to give me a week or two, however: I had to order a proper fitting helmet, jacket and knee/shin protection (my local stores keep very limited stock on the shelves), and although my nearest neighbor was fine with me using his hayfield, he warned me, laughing, that he was in the process of fertilizing it, if you get my drift, so I'm still hunting for a nearby training ground. That said, your lesson plan combined with everyone else's suggestions -- including Bagger's most recent post, which is also something I'll be mining for a while -- is preparing me mentally to get back on the bike and arming me with small bites/strategies for how to focus and learn once I'm on it.

I appreciates ericj's advice not to think too much about it, but that's just how some of us are wired, eh? More to the point, the import of the long time bikers'/former instructors' input is that practicing discrete skills again and again until they become second nature is the best way, for some of us at least, to achieve that goal of not thinking too much about it.

Can't help but comment on a couple of other posts:

mtgrl: Damn but I hope I can earn my way into that club!

uktw125: You made me laugh out loud.

sinophilia: Thanks for the video tips.

One last comment, for now, to this entire group: I started using the web in 1992 when I worked as an admin at MIT (this was before HTML). I remember seeking and getting a little advice on an early BBS about bicycle touring in Nova Scotia, but other than that, I've never been a participant or user of an online group like this. I'm just blown away by the thoughtful, grounded, concrete and generous sharing of insight, empathy, straight-talk and collegiality you've shown me and show each other. Kudos to the site administrator who has clearly been good about setting groundrules for folks' participation but it all comes down to the people behind the posts, doesn't it?

CMC

[Mike]

I first learned to ride when I was 14. I'm 38 now.

First ride went like this: Honda Spree Scooter (49cc's of pure power!) in the back yard. Mom and Dad watching me as I take off through the yard. I get ready to turn and grab the front brake. Oh wait, this isn't a bicycle where the rear brake is where the front brake is.,.... Scratch one turnsignal and a mirror in less than a minute. Mom & Dad came running over. I was laughing. I got back up and went at it again. I quit riding scooters by 16.

Fast Forward 16 years.... I purchased a 1982 Kawasaki GPz 500. First thing I did in the backyard? scratch 2 turn signals and a mirror!!! I laughed at myself about the irony. Picked it up and rode around the backyard for a few days. Then I ventured out into the neighborhood so I could get to a church parking lot ( NOT ON SUNDAY THOUGH !! ) I did circles left. I did circles right. I tried to wheelie! Then I said to myself - No Mike, NO Wheelies. Wheelies = dumb/hurt/broken bike. I went back to circles and figure 8's. I made a "track" of empty water bottles. I weaved in and out. I spent a whole day in that parking lot. I was hot, sweaty but I had a big ol grin on my face !!

Go out in that field and play. You're a kid again learning to do something a wee bit more complicated than riding a bike. But it's not THAT much harder and you're A LOT smarter and have WAY more common sense than when you learned to ride a bike.

You CAN do it. You bought it, now go out and learn to ride it. I've been riding 6 years now. GPz500(sold to a friend so HE could learn) to a 2007 Honda Shadow 750 (paid for now and still own) and a 1991 TDub 200 BABY !!! I love this little bike. More than my Shadow... Well, it's close anyway

Go. Out. To. That. Field. AND RIDE !!! You Will Learn. You may get some bumps and bruises and so might the little Tdub. But when it's all said and done, you'll be telling a story like me to someone else somewhere down the road. And those bumps and bruises/ dents and dings will bring a smile to your face.

Mike

[cdsdave]

Everytime you get on that bike you will be a little bit better. Riding a motorcycle well takes a huge amount of committement. If it was easy everyone would do it. Don't give up, you will regret it if you do. qwerty knows his stuff so take his advise. I am on my fourth riding season and I ride everyday, a few hours a day on trails and road and I can confidently say that I don't suck anymore, but I am a long way from impressing anyone with my skills. You are in for a long and gratifying learning curve. Good luck, take it slow, and be careful.

[qwerty]

Finding neutral with a TW is often a problem, TWs don't like to go to neutral. TWs like to go. Somewhere. Usually slowly. Forget neutral. It's impossible to find sometimes. Lots of miles and ester-based synthetic oil helps. I put Tdub in neutral for starting at the beginning of a ride, she gets about as long as it takes to done helmet and gloves to warm up and build oil pressure, and we're off like a thundering turtle. If I just stop to talk to someone, I just pull in the clutch, start her up in 1st, and sit there 15-20 seconds, then go. Somewhere. Slowly. Like a thundering turtle.

Don't worry about sitting still with the clutch pulled in. TW's have a clutch technology very, very different from a car. TW clutches are designed to be held in. Riding the clutch isn't good, but no sense shifting to neutral every time you stop--actually not safe to do so on the road. Other than starting from a dead stop, the clutch needs to be all the way in or all the way out. You can safely sit stopped for a redlight or in traffic just by pulling in the clutch. Won't hurt a thing because TWs don't have a throwout bearing to wear out like a car does.

[secretStash]

Warm-up takes 2-3min, minimum. And that's on a warm day. I know because I have a temperature gauge - something most of these people dont. Do NOT underestimate the importance of warming up in regards to wear and tear on the bike. Got a small level? Warm up the bike, now turn it off, and set the level on the seat so you know the bike is upright, standing straight (you should be standing on the RIGHT side of the bike). Get someone to hold it for you if you have to. There is a small glass window on the bottom of the side cover, towards the front of the bike. The oil level should be between the two hash-marks with the bike warmed up, upright, and turned off. Some of these people are all hoohahing over synthetics and crap...whatever. I just go with the Valvoline 20W-50 WET CLUTCH motorcycle oil. I dont bother to get the pricey stuff because it's not a performance grade machine and makes no difference IMO. I'll pass on subjective anecdotes (butt-dyno) and convert only if I see real data. A lovely saying we used to pass around the old forum - In God we trust, everyone else must bring data. Best of luck to you.

-sS

[qwerty]

Valvoline 4-Stroke is good stuff. It costs half of Mobil 1. It also loses its viscosity twice as fast. I run Mobil 1 right at twice as far as the Valvoline before viscosity degrades 5 points, which is when I change it. Therefore, Mobil 1 saves money because I only buy half as many oil filters.

It is easy to monitor viscosity change. This method isn't exactly accurate, but accurate enough for our purposes. I learned it from a chemical engineer retired from an oil company R&D lab.

All you need is a cup with a hole in it. Auotmotive paint suppliers sell such vicosity cups, also called viscometers. Time how long a given volume of new oil at a specific temperature takes to leak out of the cup. Time how long the same volume of water at the same temperature takes to drain out of the cup. Draw up a number line with 0 viscosity at the time of water draining, and 40 or 50 (whichever you are using) vicosity at the time of fresh oil draining. When the oil is drained, time the same volume of oil at the same temperature leaking from the same cup. If you started with 40, and the time is 3/4 the way from water to 40, your oil is broken down to 30. If you started with 40, and the time is 1/2 the way from water to 40, your oil is broken down to 20.

I use a hotplate to heat liquids to 200*F for testing, to better replicate conditions while running.

Now you can gather your own data.

[srs713]

Hi cmc! Just tossing in my 2 cents here.

Neutral is that annoying thing between first and second that I accidentally hit when I'm not paying attention. I don't use it even when I park.
As for falling over... I've been riding since 1970, After more than 150,000 miles, I still fall over now & then. It's not a sign of failure, it's just another #@*&%$ annoying thing that happens while riding.

Sounds like you have the spirit for riding. Welcome to the funny farm.